Animal Health

Does My Senior Horse Need Calories or Protein?

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, Nutrition , , , ,

Does My Senior Horse Need Calories or Protein?

Posted on August 19, 2014 by Roy J. for Nutrena

 

There are some common questions come up when we talk about what happens to horses as they age and why their bodies change shape:

§  Does my good old horse need more calories (energy) or more protein?

§  He is out on good pasture and is holding his weight, but his hair coat looks dull and he has lost muscle mass.

§  She looks a little thin, should I add some fat/oil to her diet?

These are all apparently simple questions, but actually we need to look at the nutrient supply and purpose a little closer.

Calories from fat/oil, digestible fiber (structural carbohydrates and starch & sugar (non-structural carbohydrates) are the key energy sources for horses. If a horse is thin, that tells us that the horse needs more Calories to maintain fat cover measured by Body Condition Score system. Those Calories can be added from extra fat/oil, extra digestible fiber or additional starch and sugar. Vegetable oil contains 2.25 x the Calories per pound of carbohydrates and is a safe way to add Calories. Switching to a highly digestible fiber source (better quality forage, added beet pulp etc.) can also add Calories of digestible energy (DE). It takes 2-3+ pounds of added feed to add 1 pound of gain, depending on the feed.

Adding Calories alone will not bring back the muscle mass. This will require added protein (really added essential amino acids, particularly lysine, methionine and threonine, the first 3 limiting essential amino acids). If a horse is getting adequate crude protein, but the protein is of limited quality and is low in one or more essential amino acids, the horse will not be able to utilize it fully to maintain or restore muscle mass. This is why it is essential to know the quality of the protein in feeds, particularly these first 3 limiting amino acids.

A common situation is an old horse retired to a grass pasture. It may be difficult for the horse to consume enough to maintain body condition, thus the horse loses weight. The grass pasture may also be low in crude protein and certainly low in essential amino acids, so the horse also loses muscle mass. Tough combination for an old friend!

The good news is that this can be reversed with the use of a well-designed senior horse feed providing both Calories and essential amino acids!

 

Using essential oils in accordance with Chinese medicine

Diane Weinmann Animal Health ,

Using essential oils in accordance with Chinese medicine

By Cynthia Lankenau, DVM, CVA, CVCHM, RH (AHG) | June 8, 2015

 

Many diseases result from habituations that create chronicity. Essential oils are among the modalities that can change habituations. Sensations create our perception and oils can change our perception.

Essential oils represent the genetic unfolding of the plant – the Jing, the essence of the plant. They therefore have potential effects on physical developmental problems as well as the mental and spiritual development of an individual. The plant’s Jing will resonate with the body’s Jing. As a result, a vast degree of possible healing can occur when essential oils are applied to acupuncture meridians such as the Eight Extraordinary channels, Yuan-source points, or Mu-points.

Dr. Jeffrey Yuen first began using essential oils in his pediatric practice, since children often fear needles and do not want to eat/drink Chinese herbs. This is also often the case with animals.

It is important to use oils on yourself so you can personally experience their effects. The aromas can induce fi ve different states that can influence and affect an individual, and transform one emotion into another e.g. fear into acceptance.

The five states are:

1.    Healing relaxation – resins like Frankincense and myrrh can create this state.

2.    Assistance with non-healing wounds.

3.    A sense of internal beauty, help with self-esteem and lifting of the spirit – fl oral oils such as carnation can create this emotional state in which a patient learns to love.

4.    Nobility – it’s enhanced when one is able to embrace both the bad and the good and still see the beauty or the worth in any situation. Sage is an example of an oil to use for this purpose.

5.    A solitary state without distraction – some aromas such as sandalwood, vetiver and spikenard root can encourage this. An oil with a light intensity, like citrus, will affect the moods very quickly. Moderately intense aromas will affect the emotions, while a strongly intense aroma can affect temperament.

OIL QUALITY IS CRITICAL

The preparation of essential oils varies and some should never be used on animals.

1.    Absolutes have been extracted using chemicals, so should never be used on animals, either topically or internally.

2.    You should always use medicinal quality oils; these are safe if ingested.

3.    Hydrosols can be used in place of essential oils to avoid toxicity issues, although they may be less effective.

MECHANISMS OF ACTION

There are many theories around how essential oils work. For example, the chemotype theory is based on the pharmacology of the chemical components found in essential oils. Clinical results points to the efficacy of the oils, and testing has been done to fi nd out which organs are predominantly affected by which oils. For example, rosemary oil is associated with the liver.

Most oils contain monoterpenes, which are antiseptic and antibacterial. These are used to stimulate acupuncture points and tend to irritate the skin. An example would be using lemon on St 26 to stimulate the Wei Qi, the defensive immune system, for any immune
deficiency or imbalance.

Other oils contain sesquiterpenes, which are antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-viral, and soothing to the skin. They are more cooling and nourishing. An example would be using chamomile to help with sleep.

Additional characteristics are also attached to other groups of oils:

• Alcohol groups tend to be strongly antibacterial, anti-viral, and anti-infl ammatory. E.g. lavender.

• Ketone groups break up fat (lipolytic) and phlegm (mucolytic) and help regulate fl uid metabolism – e.g. Phase 1 (garlic) and Phase 2 (rosemary) conjugation in liver detoxifi cation.

• Ester groups are analgesic and regulate pain as well as, if not better than, NSAIDs.

• Phenol groups break up lymphatic congestion and stimulate WBCs (e.g. cinnamon bark). If a goiter is present, bay laurel could help. Caution must be used with cats if the phenol group eugenol is used, due to its hepatotoxic effects.

HIGH, MIDDLE AND BASE NOTES

Chinese medicine classifies essential oils based on criteria similar to the classifi cation of Chinese herbs – i.e. via the law of signatures, five elemental associations, nature or temperature, taste, aroma, relationship to neighboring plants and channel (or meridian) affiliation. An additional feature for oils is the “notes”.

1. High notes (top notes) are oils that evaporate rapidly, often in a few hours. They influence the Wei Qi (defensive immune system or external) level and include the citruses (safest – mandarin orange, tangerine, clementine), mints, peppermint, wintergreen (toxic to animals) and eucalyptus. These oils are primarily used for acute conditions. They awaken the senses, serving as the first invitation for a patient to change. The safer hydrosols usually act as top notes. Peppermint can be thought of as the “rescue remedy” of essential oils.

2. The middle notes have a duration of five to seven hours and are used for more sub-acute problems that tend to be in the Ying level, which affects the plasma in the blood, or the internal level. They are useful for circulatory issues (movement of Qi moving blood), to regulate digestion (both assimilation and elimination) and for cognitive function (digesting and assimilating the information around us, and eliminating that which is not needed).

The oils at this level tend to be spices – fennel, dill, caraway, rosemary, parsley and oregano (the safest are seeds of caraway, coriander/cilantro). Also included are fl oral oils like chamomile, ylang ylang, geranium and lavender – safest are naroli/orange blossom, rose (absolute) lavender, German or Roman chamomile. Grass seeds like lemon grass, as well as melaluca (tea tree oil) are also part of this group. Lavender is also often used as a “rescue remedy” of sorts, but the initial burst is more subtle and it will have a longer effect than peppermint.

3. The base notes evaporate in 24 to 48 hours, and are therefore effective for chronic, constitutional issues at the Yuan level (which can influence genetic tendencies). They include the resins, like frankincense, myrrh and sandal wood; precious fl orals, like rose and jasmine; roots like spikenard and vetiver; and wood oils. When making a therapeutic blend for a patient, an essential oil is often chosen from each note level. The top note is used to awaken the senses and is often the first one to be smelled. The middle notes are often used as harmonizers and modifiers for the formula, and the base notes are used as fixatives. In an acute situation, a blend can be made using all top notes, but know that there is always is a deeper constitutional susceptibility, and a more balanced blend is usually needed to support and address this constitutional issue.

For example, if you have a dog with an autoimmune joint disease such as rheumatoid arthritis, you could use a top note of peppermint to help with his ability to rest during any acute situations; a middle note of thyme or gerianol to help clear the heat of the latent infection; and a base note of sandalwood to help treat the fascial pain.

USE AND APPLICATIONS

There are three ways to use essential oils:

1.    Topical application for bodywork and cranial-sacral work.

2.    Topical application on acupuncture points for point stimulation, or on discrete areas of the body. Topical application depends on the humors you want to affect –lymphatics, blood or nerves – and the regions you want to influence. Massaging the ears with oils can have an effect on the nervous system. Massaging the paws will have an effect on the circulation of blood.

3.    Medical grade essential oils can be given orally in a one- or two-drop dose. (Remember that cats are sensitive to the eugenols of the phenol group.)

While essential oils have long been popular for healing in people and animals, integrating their effects into a Chinese medicine approach gives you an even more powerful healing modality to explore. More than merely treating animal’s ailments, essential oils are excellent for treating the home environment – people, living space and animals.

 

Due to their concentrated strength, essential oils need to be diluted in another oil before any topical application.

Hazelnut oil can penetrate the epidermis and fi nd its way into the dermis; it’s astringent and good for oily skin in any animal, including humans.

Macadamia oil is an appropriate carrier for dry or aged skin.

Almond oil is energetically absorbed through the skin very quickly; it’s high in antioxidants, vitamins E and B, and is very protective and nourishing for the skin.

Olive oil is green and very heavy; it has a descending effect on the body, so it’s very good for hyperacidity in any animal. It’s also good for heart conditions and promotes drainage of stagnation in the blood. It nourishes the blood and can be used in cases of anemia.

Sunflower oil opens the Heart and the Zhong Qi, is very good for respiratory conditions and cardiovascular conditions, resonates with CV 17 and stimulates Wei energy, and is very high in antioxidants, especially vitamin E.

Safflower oil is similar to sunflower but resonates more with the chest for cardiovascular
issues; it promotes blood circulation and is good for blood stagnation.

Coconut and palm oils are very high in amino acids. They resonate with our Jing (essence).
They help with constitution and neurologic issues, and whenever there is a problem with
the curious vessels, bowels, brain, spine, genitals, bones and marrow (they would be good
for arthritic conditions).

Sweet almond and grape seed oils help with functional imbalances and Ying/Qi functions,
and have a humeral effect.

Not recommended: Peanut oil, due to potential toxins; and soy oil because of its high
susceptibility to oxidation (plus it is usually GMO).

 

Senior Horse Care Tips

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, animal hospice , , , , ,

Nutrena Posted on August 25, 2015 by Megan C. comments by Diane Weinmann

 

These days, horses are living longer, more productive lives than ever before.  Thanks to advances in care, medicine, nutrition and veterinary practices, it’s not unusual to find a horse active into their thirties.  But with more active years comes the need to provide accommodations which meet the special needs of the aging equine.

Turn-out and Exercise

Moving is a key factor in keeping your senior comfortable.  Not only does moving about help with preserving muscle mass, motion also aids in digestion, reducing inflammation and increasing circulation.  Daily turnout is a great way to provide this opportunity, as is regular exercise.  Some ideas to exercise include light schooling, trail rides, driving or hand walking.  Whether in a pasture or dry lot, daily turnout and frequent exercise of your senior horse will go a long way in providing a happy, healthy retirement. Plus it’s more time to spend with your aging friend.

 

Dentition

As horses age, their teeth change due to wear.  Hopefully your senior horse has had the advantage of regular dental care in their earlier years, setting them up for success later in life.  Regular dental checks and floats not only help to maintain good dental health, it also provides your senior with the best chance at chewing and digesting their feed and forage.

Forage and alternative options

With the change in teeth comes some accommodation to forage.  Though aged, the equine senior still requires fiber as the main source of energy. Changes in dental efficacy as well as digestive system changes means the importance of good quality fiber is even higher.  If high quality hay (more leafy, less stems) is not readily available, hay cubes are a good alternate source of easy to chew fiber.  If needed, hay cubes can be soaked, providing an easy to chew fiber source.

Feed and Mashes

Changes in the digestive efficiency of the senior horses requires some specific nutritional needs.  As the digestive system ages, the ability to digest and absorb nutrients is more of a challenge than in earlier years.  In addition, nutrients are needed in different ratios to support the aging body.  For example, higher levels of quality amino acids are required to maintenance muscle mass in the senior horse.  Feeds that are specially formulated for senior horses provide these higher levels of nutrients in the proper ratio.  Many varieties of senior feeds are considered ‘complete’, in that they contain higher levels of fiber, providing an alternative to forage, thereby making it easier for the senior horse to get the nutrients needed.

Blanketing

You may notice a difference in your horse’s ability to stay warm during cold or wet weather.  Blanketing may be needed to help keep your senior horse warm during inclement weather.  Not only does blanketing help with warmth, your senior horse isn’t spending valuable calories trying to stay warm, burning off energy and their weight.  Blanketing in extreme cold or dampness may help your horse in maintaining a desired body condition.

Senior horse care may require some extra steps and more attention to details, but with the right adjustments, your senior can enjoy productive, happy and healthy golden years.

 

Bunnies are great Pets!

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , , ,

Bunnies are great Pets!

 

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmann

What small animal is shy, has luxuriously soft fur and is surprisingly intelligent? One might add that it’s also one of the most popular 4-H project animals, and a wonderful critter for almost any kid — or adult — to enjoy. Those attributes could be true for many potential pets, but it fits the bill for bunnies.

There are many more reasons why a rabbit makes an excellent house pet. When well taken care of, they can live for 5 or even 15 years. They enjoy being around people and are very affectionate, playful, clean and can even be litter trained.  Diane’s experience has been that her bunnies never lived past 10 years and I had one that didn’t live much past 2 years old.  As I was grief stricken at this loss, I was told that many rabbits don’t get past 2 years of age because of heart problems.  This information was given to me by a person who raised them for many years.  Nevertheless, I love bunnies and have had many thru the years.  Most lived at least 8 years and are wonderful pets for younger children to learn how to care for a pet.

But if you’re interested in getting a rabbit as a family pet, it’s always important to take into consideration what’s good for the animal. It’s fun having such a cute and cuddly animal to hold, but knowing what to expect and how to keep your bunny happy and healthy as he gets bigger is crucial.

If you have expectations about what having a bunny (or any other pet) will look like without gathering the facts, you may be disappointed, and that’s one of the leading reasons why so many pets are surrendered back to shelters or just given away.

It’s also why, if you’re a first-time rabbit owner, your lifestyle is an important factor to consider, especially since rabbits tend to be more fragile than dogs and cats. In fact, they’re a whole ’nuther animal! Knowing how a rabbit will fit into your household space and family is important because like any other pet, rabbits have their own foibles, tendencies and personalities.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Rabbit as a Pet

Once you’ve decided that a rabbit would be a great pet for your family (or just you), it may come as a surprise to learn there are about 60 breeds to choose from. Size and color can vary widely, but in the U.S., the Dutch rabbit, usually either black and white or brown and white, is one of the most common. There are also dwarf varieties and the kind with droopy “lop” ears rather than the erect ears you typically think of in regard to rabbits.

Males (bucks) and females are both very tame and sociable, but if you decide on a pair (rabbits are social creatures who tend to be happier if they have a buddy), unless you want to start up a bunny factory (please don’t), you’ll want to adopt a same-sex pair or arrange for well-timed spaying/neutering before they are put together).

Angora rabbits with long fur should be groomed often, and loose hair can be an issue. Again, like many other pets, if they’re not used to having people and especially children around, socializing rabbits gradually, including with other pets, is good for everyone. 

One thing to make sure of beforehand is if someone in your home has an allergy that a rabbit might make worse. While children seem to gravitate toward them, the fragility of rabbits whether they’re small or more mature is something to consider carefully if you have small children in the household. Some rabbits don’t like being picked up, carried around or held closely, and may respond by scratching, and in their struggle to get away, could be dropped.

Rabbits need to be picked up carefully so their back and hind legs aren’t injured. Ask your veterinarian about the best way to handle rabbits, especially large ones. One thing prospective rabbit owners should know is that they love to chew. While some may love the idea of giving their bunny free reign in the house or even the yard, it’s imperative that you keep an eye on them at all times.

Untreated grass and carrots might be fine for Snowball to nibble on, but keep in mind that electrical cords, furniture, indoor and outdoor plants and papers, magazines, books … if it’s on her level, it’s fair game! Instead, keep your rabbit corralled in a known environment for her own safety, and rotate appropriate, non-toxic chew toys.  Diane still has nightgowns with chew holes in them as her bunnies loved to sit on her lap and chest but still felt the need to chew!

What Should You Look for When Choosing Your Forever Bunny?

Speaking of eating, when you bring a pet home, one of the things families with children need to talk about and make clear is who will be responsible for feeding him or her. That’s also true if your new pet is a rabbit. A good diet assures that your bunny will have shiny, lush fur and bright eyes, and that’s what you should look for the first time you go looking for your forever bunny, ideally from a rescue organization near you.

When you take your fluffy bunny home, you should already be prepared for him, with hay ready, and pure, filtered water should be available to her at all times. Although it may take a little longer, you should start litter training your bunny the day you bring her home. My House Rabbit explains:

“Fresh hay should make up the bulk of your rabbit’s diet and needs to be readily available at all times. Adult rabbits can eat timothy, grass, and oat hays, while younger rabbits should be fed alfalfa. Alfalfa should not be given to adult rabbits because of the higher protein and sugar content.

Hay is important for rabbits because it provides the essential fiber needed for good digestive health and it helps wear down a rabbit’s teeth (which continuously grow) for good dental health. Placing hay at one end of a litter box will also encourage the use of the litter box, as rabbits tend to eat hay and poop at the same time.”1

Vegetables are another staple food for rabbits, such as celery, lettuce, bok choy and carrot tops (sparingly). Leafy greens and herbs are a definite prerequisite for rabbits to eat and can include a wide variety, including cilantro, dill, kale (sparingly), broccoli leaves, mustard, collard and dandelion greens. Treats like apples, raspberries, bananas, pineapples and strawberries are enjoyed by many rabbits, but organic is best, and limit the amount because too much sugar for rabbits isn’t good, either.  Diane’s rabbit, Cinnamon, LOVED blueberries and would throw everything out of his bowl to get to those berries or to search for them!  Let’s just say that in the winter months we had many conversations as to why I was not supplying these preferred berries.  Cinnamon didn’t seem to understand the cost of buying out of season!!!

Don’t feed rabbits cabbage or the “trees” of broccoli because they can cause gas. As mentioned, like the veggies you feed your family, look for organic varieties and wash them thoroughly before letting Thumper eat. Fresh pellets are acceptable as a supplement for rabbits’ diet, especially if they’re low in protein and high in fiber, but processed pellets should not be fed as a sole food source.

Rabbits Have Special Needs, Too

There’s also shelter and exercise to think through, in addition to knowing what food is appropriate. Along those lines and according to the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA):

“As its owner, you will ultimately be responsible for your rabbit’s food, shelter, exercise, physical and mental health for the rest of its life. While families should involve their children in caring for a rabbit, youngsters need the help of an adult who is willing, able, and available to supervise the animal’s daily care.

Rabbits are well-known for their ability to produce large numbers of babies. Purchasing and breeding a rabbit for the purpose of allowing children to witness the birth process is not responsible rabbit ownership. If a female rabbit becomes pregnant, it is your responsibility to find good homes for the offspring.”

In regard to rabbit sizes, The Spruce lists several breeds, including dwarf bunnies, which can be as small as 2.5 pounds, and the largest ones (Flemish Giants), which can weigh 16 pounds or more. For comparison purposes, an American fuzzy lop will weigh in at 3.5 to 4 pounds, an American sable might be 7 to 10 pounds, a Flemish Giant 13 pounds and higher and a New Zealand from 9 to 12 pounds.2

Consider Where You’ll Keep Your Rabbit

Many people like the idea of placing their rabbit in an outdoor hutch, but knowledgeable rabbit guardians know that the safest place for their pet is indoors. While wild rabbits are accustomed to temperature extremes, domestic bunnies are not. In addition, rabbits are prey for many animals, so even in a safe outdoor enclosure your pet is vulnerable to predators. Sadly, just the presence of a wild animal nearby can cause so much stress in a rabbit that he may suffer a heart attack and die of fear. The AVMA emphasizes:

“Keeping a rabbit outdoors in a hutch may seem more ‘natural,’ but it can be harmful for the rabbit. An outdoor cage exposes it to weather extremes and predators such as cats, dogs, and foxes. Even if a predator cannot get access to the rabbit, the rabbit could die from the stress of an attempted attack.

Many condominium associations allow their residents to keep rabbits as pets since most no-pet clauses apply only to dogs or cats. However, be sure to consult your association bylaws before you decide to bring a rabbit into your unit.”3

Inside your house, a large cage or an area strewn with newspapers or with a low litter box and food and water bowls will work for your rabbit’s home, but she’ll need plenty of time outside of her cage, in a bunny-proofed area, for exercise and mental well-being.  Don’t  forget the climate control is important as your bunny does not do well in extreme heat and humidity or cold.

Once your bunny settles in, you’ll find she makes a good companion, and needs to have exercise, which gives you a chance to engage and interact with your new fluff ball. He will show how much he appreciates you, and the feeling will be mutual.  Diane was exercising her lop eared bunny using a harness and leash and traffic pulled over in the development to see what type of pet it was…the people thought it was a puppy!  Crazy!!!

 

 

 

Is your Cat Depressed?

Diane Weinmann Animal Communication, Animal Health, animal hospice, healing your pet , , , ,

by Jessica Vogelsang, DVM and comments by Diane Weinmann

 

You’re probably familiar with Grumpy Cat, the little feline whose frown has made her famous across the internet. You may also be familiar with your own grumpy cat, if you happen to have a particularly temperamental one at home.

 

Cats are known for their diverse, often feisty, personalities; some are anxious, some reserved, others inquisitive. But what does it mean if your cat is acting depressed? Do cats even suffer from depression? Well, yes and no.

 

How is Depression in Cats Defined?

 

Certainly cats can exhibit depressed behavior, but the general consensus is that they do not experience the same emotional changes associated with clinical depression in humans.

 

“In general, depression in humans is considered a multifactorial disease,” says Dr. Lynn Hendrix, the owner of Beloved Pet Mobile Vet in Davis, California and a palliative care expert. Depression can be situational, caused by a stressful situation, or medical, due to chemical imbalances in the brain. The diagnosis is based on self-reported symptoms, says Hendrix, meaning that the symptoms can be expressed verbally to the doctor or psychologist.

 

Those diagnostic criteria are not available to veterinarians. Since  most people  can’t ask cats exactly what they are feeling, whether they’re sad or angry or anxious or joyous, they must rely on the clues that the cat gives us through their behavior and daily activities and make our assessments based on that.  If  you talk with an animal communicator you can find out for sure.

 

“The clinical signs we see tend to be loss of appetite, avoidance behavior, less active, and abnormal behavior, like hissing,” says Hendrix. Some cats may show changes in litterbox usage, while others have disturbed sleep patterns.

 

Other Causes for Symptoms of Depression in Cats

 

Unfortunately, those symptoms are caused by a wide variety of conditions in felines, so getting to the root of the problem usually involves a visit to the veterinarian to rule out other problems. Medical problems such as kidney disease or GI cancer can cause nausea and decreased appetite that mimic depression.

 

According to Hendrix, pain is one of the most underdiagnosed conditions in cats, seniors in particular, and is one of the leading causes of clinical signs of depression. “Most of the time, there is pain or physical disease causing a cat to act ‘depressed’,” she says.

 

In Hendrix’s experience, many pet owners who are dealing with terminally cats are concerned that their cat is experiencing depression, often mirroring their own sadness about a pet’s illness. Hendrix encourages those owners to consider medical causes instead. Often, “it is sick behavior,” she says. “Their terminal illness [is] making them feel sick, nauseous, painful.”

 

As a hospice and palliative care veterinarian, Hendrix is able to address those specific symptoms and help cats feel much more comfortable, even during the end of life process. In some cases, owners who were considering euthanasia actually postponed their decision due to the improvement in their pet’s temperament once proper treatment was instituted. For that reason, she recommends people seek veterinary care for pets exhibiting depressed behavior, as accurate diagnosis and treatment can significantly improve quality of life.

 

The Evaluation Process for Depression in Cats

 

Veterinarians will begin the evaluation by taking a full history of the symptoms and performing a complete physical examination.

 

“Bloodwork, chest x-rays, and abdominal ultrasound may be suggested by your veterinarian,” says Hendrix. Those baseline tests usually provide a good overall look at a pet’s health and organ function. Depending on the results, other tests may be recommended.  Infections, tumors, and inflammatory diseases of the nervous system can result in significant behavioral changes in cats. Changes due solely to stress and anxiety can be difficult to differentiate from medical conditions, so it is often a process of elimination to reach a diagnosis in cats.

 

Again, if the issue is physical in nature these tests will help; however, if the cause of the depression is emotional, you will learn nothing.  At that point you should consult an animal communicator, like Diane Weinmann, to determine how to proceed.

 

Although cats tend to be independent and resilient, they can suffer from anxiety due to changes in routine, feeling threatened, or the addition or loss of family members. Anxiety is, in fact, one of the major behavioral conditions seen by veterinarians. Chronic stress can have an impact on a pet’s emotional, and even physical, health. Self-inflicted hair loss, aggression, or changes in litterbox usage are often traced back to anxiety.

 

Treating the Cat’s Stress Instead of Depression

 

If a stressor can be identified and eliminated, often the symptoms will improve or resolve. A veterinarian, trainer or animal communicator experienced in cat behavior can help with recommendations to make a home environment less stressful to an anxious cat. A cat that feels exposed and doesn’t have a place to hide, for example, may respond to more covered furniture or additional vertical spaces in the house so he or she feels more in control of the environment.

 

Competition in multi-cat households can also cause stress. Depending on the situation, owners may need to add resources in the form of additional litterboxes and food bowls, or even separate cats that are not getting along.

 

As another environmental modification, some cats respond to pheromone diffusers such as Feliway, which can have a calming effect.  Diane has had success with essential oils and bach flower essences to alleviate emotional issues.

 

Using Medication to Treat Stress in Cats

 

For more severe cases, veterinarians can prescribe prescription medications which have been known to help with anxiety in some cats. Trazodone, gabapentin, alprazolam, and midazolam are just some of the options that a veterinarian may recommend, depending on the situation.

 

Regardless of the cause, a cat showing signs of depression can benefit greatly from a prompt evaluation by a veterinarian. If we resist applying the human definitions of mood disorders to our feline friends and instead evaluate them strictly from a cat-friendly perspective, there is often much we can do to make our beloved kitties happier and healthier!  If the issue doesn’t seem to be physical—call an animal communicator (like Diane Weinmann-  www.theloveofanimals.com)

 

 

Solutions For Dog Barking

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , , , ,

Solutions For Dog Barking

https://animalwellnessmagazine.com/wp-content/uploads/magazine-covers/V15I5.jpg

by Sandra Murphy

Does your dog explode into barking whenever someone knocks at the door or rings the bell? Here are 6 ways to help him simmer down.

Ding dong! Chaos erupts as Molly skids barking down the hallway to get to the door before her human, Pat. “She’s such a sweet dog, but why does she act like we’re under attack when someone comes to the door?” asks Pat.

To answer that question, Pat needs to think like a canine, says Eileen Proctor, dog lifestyle expert and author of Relief for the Latchkey Dog. “When a dog sees people walk down the sidewalk, he barks and the people go away. The mail carrier comes to the door, rattles the mail slot, the dog barks and he goes away. It’s a dog’s job to protect the pack. When intruders leave, he’s successful.”

“The doorway is a high intensity location,” adds dog psychologist Linda Michaels. “There’s an unseen person on the other side, a human who needs protection on this side, and often, it’s a cramped space. This is the line a stranger crosses that can increase the dog’s desire to protect.”

In other words, when your dog is barking at the door, he’s only following his natural instincts. That doesn’t make it any less nerve-wracking for you, though. Luckily, there are ways you can help train him to stop treating the doorbell or a knock as a trigger for hysterical or aggressive behavior.

1. Acknowledge his efforts

Since a dog believes barking is in his job description, praise him for doing it – but set limits. A warning bark or two is fine to let you know someone’s at the door. Extended barking is not. Retool his job description to “alert” rather than “make the stranger go away”. It’s easier than you think…read on.

2. Choose a command, and don’t shout

Yelling doesn’t help. Already in a frenzy, the dog may hear “Save me, save me!” instead of “Knock it off” or “Quiet!” when you raise your voice. Choose a verbal cue like “That’s enough” or “No bark”. Use a firm voice rather than a loud one. Eileen uses a simple, “Thank you, good dog.” That says to the dog, “Stand down while I check the threat level.” He then knows the two of you are working as a team and the responsibility is not all on him.

“Consistency is the key,” adds Eileen. “Make sure all the people in the house use the same phrase. Practice makes perfect for both the human and the dog.” Have everyone in the family work with the dog so he doesn’t think the lesson applies to only one of his humans.

3. Make it more satisfying not to bark

Barking turns into its own reward because it gets attention, good or bad. To make it more rewarding for the dog to alert and then be quiet, pick a high value treat or toy that stays by the door. Its only use is as a reward for alert/quiet. The goal is to change the meaning of the doorbell or knock from “Danger!” to “Somebody’s here! Gimme a treat.” Linda concurs: “Teach the dog: ‘I can bark at the door, or I can get cookies.’

“Safety first is always a good rule,” she adds. “To diffuse the dog’s heightened emotions, have him move away from the door to a spot where he can see what’s happening but not be between his person and the visitor.” A baby gate works well as you train for calm behavior. “A handful of tiny treats scattered over the floor will distract him from territorial guarding,” says Linda. “His guarding instincts won’t disappear. He’ll just have better control.”

4. Do some practice runs

Friends who have the willingness and patience to stand on your porch and ring the doorbell while you train are priceless. Another option could be a neighborhood kid with time on his hands. If all else fails, knock on the inside of the door yourself. When the dog rushes to see what’s going on, show the reward, use the verbal cue and take him to the chosen location where he has more space to move around and time to calm himself.

Several ten or 15-minute sessions are better than 30 minutes of continuous training. End on a successful note. If you or your dog begin to get frustrated, have him do something different, such as a few sits and downs, then reward him and take a break.

5. Open the door

Once he knows the routine – alert, move to the calm spot, get the reward – it’s time to let the person come into the house. If your dog remembers the new division of labor – he alerts, you check it out – the visitor can talk to him from a distance.

If it’s still peaceful, bring the dog closer while he’s leashed. A leash gives you control over sudden jumps, inappropriate sniffs, or a body slam greeting. If he walks nicely, let him approach the visitor. If he gets excited or pulls on the leash, stop where you are to see if he remembers that only good behavior gets a reward. Is he still overly excited? Go back and start again from the calm spot.

Watch for a wagging tail. Give your guest tiny treats too. Your dog needs to see company as a good thing. If he’s relaxed, sit down and talk to your visitor for a few minutes. Take the dog back to his calm spot, scatter treats and then escort your visitor back to the door.

6. Praise good behavior!

Whether it’s a practice run or the real thing, remember to always praise or treat your dog when he does what you want him to. “The best way is to use positive reinforcement for wanted behavior,” says Eileen. “Don’t punish bad behavior.” Friends, relatives, the UPS driver or mail carrier – the number of people who have occasion to come to your door can be legion. And each one can be a learning experience for a happy human and a well-mannered dog!

Dealing With Chronic Stress

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet , ,

CHRONIC STRESS is one of the foundations of disease in dogs. Adverse stress-related behaviors, such as destructiveness and self-injury, arise because their needs are not being met. Veterinarians and pet owners are often challenged in their efforts to help dogs with behavior issues that arise from anxiety, fears and phobias because these conditions have many causes. Treatment and support requires great patience, teamwork, and often multiple therapeutic strategies:

Folic Acid (Vitamin B9): Deficiency can induce irritability, behavior disorders, reduced appetite, weight loss, and weakness.

Cyanocobalamine (Vitamin B12): Maintains normal brain and CNS functioning. Deficiency can lead to severe and irreversible CNS damage.

Magnesium: Essential for basic cellular life. Deficiency can aggravate sleep disturbance, irritability and depression.

Selenium: Helps regulate the thyroid gland; deficiency is rare in pets, but can cause muscle weakness, increased susceptibility to infection, cancer, and heart disease.

DL-Phenylalanine: Comprised of a combination of the D and L isomers of the amino acid phenylalanine. Acts as a natural pain reliever by blocking the enzymes responsible for endorphin and enkephalin breakdown.

Eleuthero powder (Eleutherococcus senticosus): Also known as Siberian ginseng, it’s an adaptogen that helps the body adapt more effectively to stress. Enhances immune function, and reduces cortisol levels, inflammatory response, and the depletion of stress-reducing hormones.

Inositol: Plays an important role as a component of several cellular messengers, including some lipids such as phosphatidylinositol phosphate.

L-Tyrosine: Necessary for neurotransmitter synthesis, such as epinephrine, norepinephrine, serotonin, and dopamine, each of which can regulate mood. Assists in the synthesis of enkephalins (pain-relieving effects). Research suggests tyrosine acts as an adaptogen, helping the body adapt and cope with the effects of stress. It is a building block for norepinephrine and epinephrine, two of the body’s primary stress hormones.

St. John’s Wort (Hypericum perforatum): Reduces anxiety and stress, and is used in dogs to help alleviate mild anxiety, fears, and phobias. It acts via a mechanism similar to opiates such as morphine.

Passion Flower (Passiflora) Extract: Its flavonoids have relaxing and anti-anxiety effects. Can help with sleep problems and restlessness. May also be effective in reducing neuralgia, including (theoretically) neuralgia in cats infected with FHV. The herb of choice for chronic insomnia.

L-5-hydroxytryptophan (Griffonia simplicifolia botanical): Has a documented sleep-inducing effect. It is a direct precursor to serotonin, which has a calming effect and regulates sleep. Griffonia seed has been shown to raise serotonin levels in the brain, relieving anxiety and improving sleep patterns.

All 11 of the natural and complementary ingredients above are contained in Serenin Vet™. This product down-regulates the triggers that over-stimulate a dog’s brain, and is formulated to help dogs suffering from separation anxiety, hyperactivity, noise phobias, sleep disturbances, etc. Any of these conditions can seriously affect the quality of your patients’ lives, and that of their owners.

Dr. Terri McCalla is a board-certified veterinary ophthalmologist and a member of Animal HealthQuest, LLC.

 

5 Fall Dangers for Dogs

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , ,

By: Jill Fanslau comments by Diane Weinmann

 

During the hot summer months, you’ve learned how to keep your dog cool, hydrated, and happy. But what about when the chillier fall season rolls in, and brings its own set of unique challenges? How do we prep our pooches for the change in atmosphere and the possible dangers that befall them? Here are five ways to keep your dog safe when the temperature changes from warm to crisp.

Rodenticides

 

As the weather gets cooler, you’ll stay indoors more often. Unfortunately, mice and rats will follow your lead, coming inside shelters to find warmth and food.

You may be tempted to put out pesticides or rodenticides—otherwise known as rat poison—to get rid of unwanted visitors. “But these rodent control chemicals can be toxic for pets if ingested,” says Len Donata, VMD, Radnor Veterinary Hospital in Pennsylvania.

“When a dog eats mouse or rat bait, a clotting factor gets blocked,” he explains. “Your pet will start to bleed.” This bleeding can start anywhere—internally or externally, from a small bump on their skin to inside their lungs. You may never even see it.” Symptoms can include rapid breathing, blood in their vomit, weakness, or seizures. “If you notice something wrong, immediately call your vet’s emergency line,” Donata urges.

Another thing to remember: some traps can be just that to a dog and they may face injuries as a result. “A mousetrap with cheese or peanut butter may look like an appetizer to an inquisitive dog,” says Teoti Anderson, CPTA-KA, KPA-CTP, owner of Pawsitive Results in Lexington, South Carolina.

Make sure your pets have no access to areas containing bait or traps. Keep doors locked and regularly check the areas to determine children or pets haven’t disturbed them.

I have an life and death personal experience with this very topic with my dog Cocoa.  He at rat poison and went into seizures.  I thought we were going to lose him but he pulled through (thank the Lord!).  All caused from putting poison in a chipmunk hole by my husband!

 

Allergies

 

Along with the beautiful fall foliage, unfortunately, comes mold, ragweed, and pollen. For many people, those seasonal allergens can lead to sneezing, a scratchy throat, and watery eyes for both you and your dog. Sure, you can pop an allergy medicine—but what about your pooch?

“When your dog comes in from outside, wipe him down with some gentle baby wipes,” says Anderson. This will help remove any microscopic allergens from his fur so he’s not carrying them around all day long.

“If your pup continues to have symptoms—like scratching, shaking his head, or constantly tearing up—see a vet,” says Dr. Donato. “Depending on how severe the symptoms are, treatments range from simple antihistamines to more aggressive medications.”

My husky Neko has been coughing after he smells crushed leaves and when he smells the base of trees where the mold grows.  I gave him Benadryl based on the vet’s recommendation and it cleared up.

 

Ticks

“You might only think of ticks as a danger during the summer, but they can pose a big problem to your dog in the fall, too,” Dr. Donato explains.  That’s because many animals limit their times outdoors or hibernate when the temps start to drop.  The result: fewer victims for ticks to latch on to. If your dog hangs out in the backyard or goes on walks near woods, he’s now an easy target for ticks.

“Ticks have heat sensors and can detect heat up to 30 feet away,” he says. “They can hang out on a branch or tall grass, and then latch on to the creature when they walk by.” Your dog can contract Lyme disease or other nasty infections from a tick after only 24 hours of the bug attaching.

“If a tick does attach to your pet, remove it immediately,” says Anderson. First, wipe the bite site and a pair of fine-point tweezers with rubbing alcohol. (Regular tweezers may squeeze germs from the tick’s body into your pet’s body.) Then grab the tick as close to your dog’s skin as possible, and pull slowly upward with constant pressure until the tick pops out. “Clean the area again with rubbing alcohol,” she adds.

If there’s a bit of the tick still in the skin, don’t worry—it’ll eventually work itself out. But you may want to drop the tick in a small bottle full of alcohol and then take a photo of it on your phone. “That way you can show your vet if he or she needs to identify it later on,” Anderson recommends, adding, “Keep an eye on your dog’s health for the next two weeks.”

Still don’t want to attempt remove the bug yourself? No problem. Just call your vet!

I continue to give my dog his flea and tick meds but I also use essential oils called AWAY from Dr. Melissa Shelton DVM.  Shown below is more info on the product and where you can purchase it:

AWAY

Ingredients:  Essential Oils of Eucalyptus citriodora, Catnip, Citronella, Lemon Tea Tree, White Cypress

Away was created for many purposes, but all are encompassed in the word “Away”.  Bugs go “Away”, smells go “Away”, and stale energy can also go “Away”!  I put it on my dog any time we are going into the woods or open field for a walk.Petting Technique The petting technique is a way to apply the oils to your pet. This technique is well tolerated by almost every form of animal. The technique can be modified for small rodents, amphibians, or animals that may be difficult to handle, simply by having the oils absorbed into your hands, and then “cupping” and holding the animal within your hands.

Petting Technique The petting technique is a way to apply the oils to your pet. This technique is well tolerated by almost every form of animal. The technique can be modified for small rodents, amphibians, or animals that may be difficult to handle, simply by having the oils absorbed into your hands, and then “cupping” and holding the animal within your hands.

s the body to find a natural way to cure itself and improve immune response.

Dogs:  Away can also be applied to most dogs topically using the “Petting Technique.”  Place 1-3 drops into your hands, rub them together until a light coating remains, then pet onto areas of need.  For insect repellent; rubbing down the legs, neck, shoulders, and back are good locations to concentrate on.  I especially focus on the “ankle” area of my dogs, since ticks will often contact this area first, as they start to climb up the legs.

Cats:  Diffusion of Away in a water-based diffuser is also recommended for cat households.  Away is wonderful for eliminating pet odors from the household, and litter box areas.

http://www.animaleo.info/order-animaleo.html

 

Closed Pools

 

If you’re a pool owner, chances are you’ve already covered your pool for the winter. “Even though the pool is closed up, you still need to keep your pooch away from it,” says Dr. Donato.

The reason? Water can collect in puddles on top of solid covers. If your dog slides out on the cover, he may have trouble getting back to solid ground. “He can get stranded, and quickly get hypothermia if temperatures are low enough,” says Dr. Donato.

This can also occur with mesh covers and if the water isn’t low enough, your pet can walk across and get wet.

 

Holiday Treats

 

October brings a bunch of trick-or-treating superheroes, goblins, and Frozen Elsa’s to your front door. It also brings a ton of chocolate into your house. Most dog owners know to keep chocolate away from their dogs, but if your pup gets his paws on those sweets, bring them to the vet right away to induce vomiting. Too much chocolate can be toxic.

“You’ll want to keep your Thanksgiving leftovers to yourself, too,” says Anderson. Onions, grapes, and raisons can be toxic to dogs, and “turkey skin is very fatty and can lead to pancreatitis in your pet,” she explains. Dr. Donato warns that feeding Thanksgiving table scraps causes a lot of gastroenteritis issues in dogs. “I know it’s a way for people to bond with their pets, but it’s a big reason why we’re kept busy.”

In other words, more leftovers for you.

Cats and Urine Accidents

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , , , ,

Cats and Urine Accidents

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmann

On occasion (and in some cases, more than occasionally), cat urine winds up somewhere other than the litterbox — usually on a soft absorbent surface like carpeting, an area rug, a pile of clothes or even your bed.

Obviously, this is a problem that must be tackled from a few different angles, the most important of which is to sort out why little Fluffy isn’t confining her potty habits to her litterbox. There are a number of reasons she might relieve herself outside the box. Here are a few of the most common:

• The box isn’t scooped and/or disinfected often enough. Cats are fastidious creatures who don’t enjoy a dirty, stinky bathroom any more than we do. That’s why you must be extremely disciplined about scooping the box. As in, once or twice a day scooping of all poop and urine clumps.

Also remove any litter stuck to the sides or bottom of the box with a damp paper towel. Dry the area thoroughly before scooping dry litter back over it. Keeping the sides and floor of the box clean and dry may help extend the time between full box clean-outs. Dispose of all used litter and clean the box at least weekly.

It’s important to wash the litterbox thoroughly to remove as much odor as possible so your cat doesn’t get turned off by the smell and decide not to use it. Wash the box using hot water and fragrance-free soap. Avoid scented cleaners and products containing potential toxins.

• Your cat doesn’t like your choice of litter or the box is in a high-traffic area or is difficult to get into or out of

• She has a medical condition like FLUTD (feline lower urinary tract disease), or another chronic illness

• Your kitty is a senior citizen or is experiencing cognitive decline

If your cat suddenly starts peeing outside her well-maintained litterbox and you haven’t moved the box or changed the type of litter she prefers, I recommend making an appointment with your veterinarian to check for an underlying physical or cognitive issue that may be contributing to the problem.

How to Pinpoint Where Your Cat’s Been Peeing

The next thing you’ll want to do is to get rid of urine odors for your own sanity, and so your kitty won’t continually return to the scene of the crime and reoffend. Some people tend to believe cat urine smells worse or is harder to extinguish than the urine of other animals, but I’m not convinced.

Often when a cat urinates outside the litterbox, no one notices right away because it’s a small spot that dries quickly or it’s somewhat hidden. As the bacteria in the urine decomposes, it gives off that telltale ammonia-like odor we all know and don’t love. Older kitties whose kidneys aren’t working at 100 percent efficiency can have more potent-smelling urine than younger cats, as well as intact males whose urine contains testosterone.

If you discover your cat has been peeing in a spot outside his litterbox, it’s a good idea to find out if he’s doing it in other areas of the house as well. The quickest way to do this is with a black light. Urine stains appear in a lovely shade of neon green when illuminated with a black light, so darken your house and walk around shining the light on floors, baseboards and anywhere there are suspicious stains or smells.

Once you find he definitely is urinating outside his box you need to determine why.  A vet visit may be in order or you may have a kitty with an emotional issue.  If this is the case, you can call Diane Weinmann, an animal communicator to obtain info from your cat as to why a change has occurred. Contact Diane at Dianefortheloveofanimals@yahoo.com.

Removing Urine Stains and Smells

For dried urine spots, treatment will depend on the type of surface you’re dealing with. Hard materials such as tile, wood flooring and baseboards can be cleaned using a safe, natural solution like 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 2 parts water, or undiluted white vinegar. Liberally spray the solution on the urine stain, wipe and repeat as often as necessary to eliminate any lingering odor. If the smell remains despite your best efforts, I recommend purchasing an enzyme-based cleaner as described below and re-treating the area(s).

Cleaning carpeting, upholstery or another absorbent surface requires a bit more effort. Cat urine is composed of several different chemicals, strains of bacteria and other substances. And while natural cleaners like hydrogen peroxide, vinegar or baking soda can deal with some urine odors, they don’t deal with them all.

That’s why it’s important to have an enzyme cleaner on hand to deal with the uric acid in cat urine stains. Take these steps to thoroughly clean urine stains and odors from carpets, rugs and other absorbent surfaces:

1. If the spot is still wet, use paper towels or another absorbent material like a rag or cloth and blot up as much of the urine as possible before moving to step 2.

2. Pour plain water over the spot and soak up the moisture, again using clean, white cloths or paper towels — continue blotting until no yellow appears on the towels.

3. Saturate the spot with a commercially available enzyme-based “digester” solution and let it sit for the prescribed amount of time. Thoroughly saturate the soiled areas, including carpet padding, if you suspect the urine has soaked all the way through.

4. Use more clean paper towels to blot up as much moisture as you can and then allow the spot to air-dry. Protecting the just-treated area is a good idea to prevent humans from walking through it and kitty from finding it and re-soiling. You can place aluminum foil loosely over the spots or use upside-down laundry baskets, bowls, baking sheets or similar items.

If the urine spot has been there awhile, you may need to repeat the last two steps at least once. Depending on the scope of the problem, be prepared to make this a multi-week project as you soak the spots, blot them, allow them to dry and then repeat the process as many times as necessary to completely remove stains and odor.

Additional Suggestions

Do yourself a favor and DO NOT make the mistake of using any old carpet-cleaning product you have on hand instead of a specialized pet formula. The products sold specifically for pet messes contain bacteria and enzyme digesters that are extremely effectively at eliminating stains and odor in both carpet and padding, without damaging or discoloring most flooring materials.

If you try something else on the spot first, then use a specialized pet formula, you may not get the same good result you can achieve using the pet product only. Also, no matter how bad the stain may look or smell when you discover it, resist the urge to use a harsh scrubbing motion to remove the spot, as this can quickly destroy the texture of your carpet or rug, and scrubbing really isn’t necessary.

If you’re patient and follow the steps listed above for stain removal, even if you have to repeat the process a few times to get all the stain out, there’s a very good chance you won’t notice the spot after it dries thoroughly. Even light-colored carpeting and rugs can be returned to good condition with the right cleaning agent and technique.

Once the urine is completely removed from a spot your cat has repeatedly soiled, try applying a few drops of a pure essential oil (I’ve used lemon, tangerine and lavender) on the area as a deterrent.

Unfortunately, urine occasionally soaks all the way through carpet and padding into the subfloor. If you can’t get rid the smell despite all your best cleaning efforts, you’ll need to remove that area of carpet and padding, neutralize the odor with an oil-based, stain-blocking primer on the subfloor and then replace the padding and carpet.

 

Cats and Holistic Décor!

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , ,

By Dr. Becker and comment by Diane Weinmann

Himalayan salt lamps are very popular these days. They’re used in homes to help beautify and refresh the indoor air and provide an attractive, soothing light. They come in a range of calming colors and interesting shapes. Unfortunately, these lovely lamps may pose an attractive nuisance in homes with pets, especially cats. Kitties, as we know, can jump or climb onto tabletops, dressers, nightstands, kitchen and bathroom counters, bookshelves … you get the idea.

Anywhere you might place a salt lamp around your home is probably accessible to your cat, and apparently there are kitties who enjoy licking the lamps. I have absolutely no idea how widespread this problem might be. Some cats seem to completely ignore the salt lamps in their homes, while others find them irresistible.

I have salt lamps everywhere in my house but my kitty has been in heaven for the past 2 years so I am not concerned.  I had them when he was in the home and he never seemed interested in them.  Thank goodness!   I know he will be coming back to me so I am glad to know this information and I will redecorate when that happens.

Salt Toxicity in Cats

The problem if your pet licks a salt lamp is that too much salt is toxic to cats (and dogs). In fact, the use of salt to induce vomiting in pets is no longer the standard of care and is absolutely not a recommended approach for either pet parents or veterinarians. Symptoms of salt poisoning include:

✓ Vomiting ✓ Walking drunk ✓ Tremors
✓ Diarrhea ✓ Abnormal fluid accumulation in the body ✓ Seizures
✓ Lack of appetite ✓ Excessive thirst or urination ✓ Coma
✓ Lethargy ✓ Potential kidney damage ✓ Death

Treatment for salt poisoning in pets includes administration of intravenous (IV) fluids, electrolyte monitoring, treatment for dehydration and brain swelling and supportive care.1

Besides salt lamps, other sources of salt around the house include table salt, rock salt (used in de-icers), seawater, homemade play dough, paint balls and enemas containing sodium phosphate. If you suspect your cat has been poisoned by salt, call your veterinarian or an emergency animal hospital immediately.

5 More Surprising Cat Toxins

  1. Topical Pain Medications Containing Flurbiprofen

Flurbiprofen is a human non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) applied to the skin to relieve muscle, joint or other pain. Cats are extremely sensitive to NSAIDs, and reports of five kitties who became ill after their owners applied the medications to their neck or feet prompted an FDA safety alert on these products.2

The medications the five cats ingested contained flurbiprofen and a variety of other active ingredients. Two cats in one family developed kidney failure but recovered with veterinary care. Three cats in another household weren’t so lucky. Two of the three developed symptoms that included lack of appetite, lethargy, vomiting, bloody stools, anemia and dilute urine. Sadly, all three ultimately died despite veterinary care.

Veterinarians performed necropsies on all three kitties and found evidence of NSAID toxicity. Since the pet owners applied the medicated cream or lotion to their own bodies and not directly to their cats, it’s reasonable to assume one of three likely scenarios occurred:

  • The owners applied their medications and then handled their cats without washing their hands
  • The kitties licked the medication off their owners’ skin
  • The cats rubbed up against their owners, transferring the medication to their fur, and then ingested it during grooming.
  1. Flea/Tick Spot-on Products for Dogs

Never, ever use a canine flea/tick product on your cat. Depending on the ingredients in the product, just a drop has the potential to kill a cat within hours. A few years ago, a newspaper in the Pittsburgh area told the heartbreaking story of four family cats who died over a four-week period because their owners treated them with spot-on products intended for dogs.3

In one tragic case, the owners noticed fleas on both their cats, so they applied “just a drop” of a topical spot-on flea treatment on each kitty. Within hours both cats were very sick and one was having convulsions. The owners immediately took both kitties to a veterinary clinic, but neither survived. In this case, the owners knew the flea treatment was intended for dogs, but figured a small amount would be safe for cats.

  1. Glow Sticks and Glow Jewelry

For reasons known only to them, many kitties enjoying gnawing on glow sticks and glow jewelry. So many, in fact that these items routinely appear on yearly top 10 cat toxin lists. The liquid inside glow sticks has a foul taste and may cause your cat to salivate excessively. More importantly, they also contain dibutyl phthalate, a chemical that can leak out and burn your cat’s fur and tongue. The plastic casing also poses a choking hazard.

  1. Detergent Pods

Most detergents and soaps contain ionic and anionic surfactants. When ingested in small amounts, these chemicals can cause GI upset in a pet, such as excessive drooling, vomiting or diarrhea. Fortunately, it’s unlikely your cat would have the opportunity or desire to ingest a large amount of bottled detergent.

Of more concern are those little brightly colored laundry detergent pods that smell good and look like candy or some other type of yummy treat to a small child or a pet. It’s conceivable that a pet might eat enough pods to cause an obstruction in the GI tract, but the greater danger of laundry and also dish detergent pods is actually the potential for a pet to bite into them and inhale the detergent.

The reason pods are more dangerous for pets than simply licking a bit of spilled detergent off the floor or their fur is the product formulation. The detergent in the pods is both highly concentrated and under pressure. If your kitty bites down on the pod, it can cause the liquid to be forcefully expelled and easily aspirated or swallowed, often in large amounts.

So even if you are using natural detergents in pods, there are still substantial risks. Detergent is foamy, and when an animal ingests it and then vomits, the foam can be pulled into the lungs. In a worst-case scenario, the detergent coats the airways and hampers oxygen exchange in the lungs, which causes suffocation.

  1. Plants, Specifically Oleanders This Time of Year

Many pet parents don’t realize how deadly the oleander plant can be if ingested by humans, dogs, cats, birds, horses, cows and other animals. The plant only grows in certain regions of the U.S. and isn’t especially attractive to animals, which is probably why many people are unaware of the danger it poses.

The common oleander is the prevalent species in the U.S., and is found primarily in warm regions of the south and southwest, California and Hawaii. Every part of the oleander plant, including the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds, fruit, sap and nectar, contains naturally-occurring cardiac glycosides, which are toxins that directly affect the electrolyte balance within the heart muscle.

Even water in which oleander leaves are floating contains these toxins. The roots and stems of the plant contain the highest amount of cardiac glycosides, followed by the leaves and flowers. The most toxic oleanders are thought to be the plants with red flowers. Oleandrin is the most widely recognized of as many as 30 different cardiac glycosides found in oleanders. Oleandrin acts similarly to the human and veterinary drug digoxin, which is used in the treatment of a variety of heart conditions.

 

Personally I had no idea all these items could be potential problems for cat households!  Please take precautions to keep your furry loved one safe!