A pet first aid kit is the first step in being prepared should an animal emergency happen. It is also a hard question to answer because I don’t think there is a “one-size-fits-all” answer.

While there are many pre-made kits that may be purchased for pets building your own kit, or adding to a pre-made one, may be the best way to have a kit customized for your pet’s lifestyle and needs.

There are, however, first aid items that are necessary for any kit, which I will list here. I have included a description of each item to help with your kit choices. For building a pet-specific first aid kit, please see the tips at the end of this FAQ.

Items to Include in Your first aid Kit

• Scissors – for cutting out things matted in fur, freeing your pet from entanglements.

• Sterile eye wash – make sure it is eye wash, not contact lens solution.
• Tweezers – to remove splinters, or other foreign materials from wounds.
• Tick remover tool – if you are in a tick-infested area, consider one of many tools to easily remove ticks and reduce additional damage or infection during removal. My review of the Tick Twister Tool. *View and compare prices on tick remover tools
• Ear wash – speak to your vet about what one would be best for your pet.
• Toenail trimmer and styptic pencil – for torn toenails. Cornstarch also works for torn nails, but not for skin wounds.
• QuikClot or similar – to stop bleeding (wounds).
• Tape – preferably the 1″ white medical tape. Easy to tear off and holds well.
• Roll Gauze – used for bandaging, an aid to stop bleeding, and padding for splints.
• Vet Wrap – this is a conforming bandage wrap used over a telfa pad or roll gauze that comes in many colors and two sizes (2″ and 4″ – pick one that best fits your pet). It clings to itself and is semi-watertight. Caution is advised to not wrap this too tight. It is best to unwrap it from the roll, then use it for the bandage with very light tension. It can be purchased at many feed stores (horse section) and some veterinary clinics.
• Telfa pads – non-stick dressings for bandaging a wound.
• Bandage Scissors – these scissors have a blunted blade to easily slip between skin and bandage material and not cut the patient’s skin.
• Antiseptic wash or wipes – look for non-stinging preparations such as chlorhexidine or betadine. Rubbing alcohol is not good for open sores or wounds.
• Antibiotic ointment – over-the-counter “general purpose” antibiotic ointment for light use with minor skin wounds. Not for eye use. Caution is advised for animals that may ingest by licking. The antibiotics are absorbed via the skin, remaining ointment may collect debris or actually slow healing in some cases. Use with discretion.
• Vet-prescribed pain relief (NSAID) – speak to your vet about obtaining as-needed first aid kit pain relief. Do not use human prescription or over-the-counter pain medications for pets. Some medications, like Tylenol, are poisonous and may be fatal to pets.
• Latex or plastic exam gloves – for your protection and your pet’s protection – use when the situation is messy.
• A muzzle – or materials to make a muzzle. Even the most well-trained animals may bite when injured or afraid.
• Thermometer – know the normals for dog and cat vital signs and how to use the thermometer.
• Water-based lubricating jelly – for use with rectal thermometers.
• Ice and hot packs – cool down skin after a burn or keep an animal warm if hypothermic. Always use a cloth between the pack and skin and check frequently for redness or irritation.
• Extra towels, wash cloths and a blanket – use for washing, keeping warm/cool, and if necessary, a way to transport the injured pet (sling).
• Diphenhydramine (aka Benadryl) – for stings and allergic reactions – speak with your vet first about proper dosing.
• Syringe or large eye dropper – to flush wounds or administer fluids by mouth.
• A list of phone numbers – your regular vet, the emergency vet, animal control, and animal poison control numbers. Another tip: program these numbers in your cell phone.
• A sturdy box – ideally plastic or metal – to hold all of your supplies and is easy to carry and pack with you will complete your kit.

Customizing A First Aid Kit for Your Pet Different species, age groups, and pet lifestyles have different first aid kit needs. For example, a ferret or diabetic pet kit should include honey or Karo syrup in the event of a low blood sugar episode. Pets who take medications regularly should have a couple days supply of all current medications (be sure to rotate meds to make sure they don’t expire). A back country or hunting dog kit may also include a meta-splint in the event of a broken leg.

Your veterinarian can help you customize a first aid kit to meet your pet’s additional medical needs.

Related: Book Review – Pet ER Guide Being prepared in the face of an emergency is calming and helps ensure the health and safety of your pets. Stay safe out there.

Pet-specific supplies

Pet first-aid book

Phone numbers: your veterinarian, the nearest emergency-veterinary clinic (along with directions!) and a poison-control center or hotline (such as the ASPCA poison-control center, which can be reached at 1-800-426-4435)

Paperwork for your pet (in a waterproof container or bag): proof of rabies-vaccination status, copies of other important medical records and a current photo of your pet (in case he gets lost)

Nylon leash

Self-cling bandage (bandage that stretches and sticks to itself but not to fur—available at pet stores and from pet-supply catalogs)

Muzzle or strips of cloth to prevent biting (don’t use this if your pet is vomiting, choking, coughing or otherwise having difficulty breathing)

Common-sense advice

In addition to the items listed above, include anything your veterinarian has recommended specifically for your pet.

Check the supplies in your pet’s first-aid kit occasionally and replace any items that have expired.

For your family’s safety, keep all medical supplies and medications out of the reach of children and pets.

Information found on the internet.