Author: Diane Weinmann

Cats and Urine Accidents

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , , , ,

Cats and Urine Accidents

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmann

On occasion (and in some cases, more than occasionally), cat urine winds up somewhere other than the litterbox — usually on a soft absorbent surface like carpeting, an area rug, a pile of clothes or even your bed.

Obviously, this is a problem that must be tackled from a few different angles, the most important of which is to sort out why little Fluffy isn’t confining her potty habits to her litterbox. There are a number of reasons she might relieve herself outside the box. Here are a few of the most common:

• The box isn’t scooped and/or disinfected often enough. Cats are fastidious creatures who don’t enjoy a dirty, stinky bathroom any more than we do. That’s why you must be extremely disciplined about scooping the box. As in, once or twice a day scooping of all poop and urine clumps.

Also remove any litter stuck to the sides or bottom of the box with a damp paper towel. Dry the area thoroughly before scooping dry litter back over it. Keeping the sides and floor of the box clean and dry may help extend the time between full box clean-outs. Dispose of all used litter and clean the box at least weekly.

It’s important to wash the litterbox thoroughly to remove as much odor as possible so your cat doesn’t get turned off by the smell and decide not to use it. Wash the box using hot water and fragrance-free soap. Avoid scented cleaners and products containing potential toxins.

• Your cat doesn’t like your choice of litter or the box is in a high-traffic area or is difficult to get into or out of

• She has a medical condition like FLUTD (feline lower urinary tract disease), or another chronic illness

• Your kitty is a senior citizen or is experiencing cognitive decline

If your cat suddenly starts peeing outside her well-maintained litterbox and you haven’t moved the box or changed the type of litter she prefers, I recommend making an appointment with your veterinarian to check for an underlying physical or cognitive issue that may be contributing to the problem.

How to Pinpoint Where Your Cat’s Been Peeing

The next thing you’ll want to do is to get rid of urine odors for your own sanity, and so your kitty won’t continually return to the scene of the crime and reoffend. Some people tend to believe cat urine smells worse or is harder to extinguish than the urine of other animals, but I’m not convinced.

Often when a cat urinates outside the litterbox, no one notices right away because it’s a small spot that dries quickly or it’s somewhat hidden. As the bacteria in the urine decomposes, it gives off that telltale ammonia-like odor we all know and don’t love. Older kitties whose kidneys aren’t working at 100 percent efficiency can have more potent-smelling urine than younger cats, as well as intact males whose urine contains testosterone.

If you discover your cat has been peeing in a spot outside his litterbox, it’s a good idea to find out if he’s doing it in other areas of the house as well. The quickest way to do this is with a black light. Urine stains appear in a lovely shade of neon green when illuminated with a black light, so darken your house and walk around shining the light on floors, baseboards and anywhere there are suspicious stains or smells.

Once you find he definitely is urinating outside his box you need to determine why.  A vet visit may be in order or you may have a kitty with an emotional issue.  If this is the case, you can call Diane Weinmann, an animal communicator to obtain info from your cat as to why a change has occurred. Contact Diane at Dianefortheloveofanimals@yahoo.com.

Removing Urine Stains and Smells

For dried urine spots, treatment will depend on the type of surface you’re dealing with. Hard materials such as tile, wood flooring and baseboards can be cleaned using a safe, natural solution like 1 part hydrogen peroxide and 2 parts water, or undiluted white vinegar. Liberally spray the solution on the urine stain, wipe and repeat as often as necessary to eliminate any lingering odor. If the smell remains despite your best efforts, I recommend purchasing an enzyme-based cleaner as described below and re-treating the area(s).

Cleaning carpeting, upholstery or another absorbent surface requires a bit more effort. Cat urine is composed of several different chemicals, strains of bacteria and other substances. And while natural cleaners like hydrogen peroxide, vinegar or baking soda can deal with some urine odors, they don’t deal with them all.

That’s why it’s important to have an enzyme cleaner on hand to deal with the uric acid in cat urine stains. Take these steps to thoroughly clean urine stains and odors from carpets, rugs and other absorbent surfaces:

1. If the spot is still wet, use paper towels or another absorbent material like a rag or cloth and blot up as much of the urine as possible before moving to step 2.

2. Pour plain water over the spot and soak up the moisture, again using clean, white cloths or paper towels — continue blotting until no yellow appears on the towels.

3. Saturate the spot with a commercially available enzyme-based “digester” solution and let it sit for the prescribed amount of time. Thoroughly saturate the soiled areas, including carpet padding, if you suspect the urine has soaked all the way through.

4. Use more clean paper towels to blot up as much moisture as you can and then allow the spot to air-dry. Protecting the just-treated area is a good idea to prevent humans from walking through it and kitty from finding it and re-soiling. You can place aluminum foil loosely over the spots or use upside-down laundry baskets, bowls, baking sheets or similar items.

If the urine spot has been there awhile, you may need to repeat the last two steps at least once. Depending on the scope of the problem, be prepared to make this a multi-week project as you soak the spots, blot them, allow them to dry and then repeat the process as many times as necessary to completely remove stains and odor.

Additional Suggestions

Do yourself a favor and DO NOT make the mistake of using any old carpet-cleaning product you have on hand instead of a specialized pet formula. The products sold specifically for pet messes contain bacteria and enzyme digesters that are extremely effectively at eliminating stains and odor in both carpet and padding, without damaging or discoloring most flooring materials.

If you try something else on the spot first, then use a specialized pet formula, you may not get the same good result you can achieve using the pet product only. Also, no matter how bad the stain may look or smell when you discover it, resist the urge to use a harsh scrubbing motion to remove the spot, as this can quickly destroy the texture of your carpet or rug, and scrubbing really isn’t necessary.

If you’re patient and follow the steps listed above for stain removal, even if you have to repeat the process a few times to get all the stain out, there’s a very good chance you won’t notice the spot after it dries thoroughly. Even light-colored carpeting and rugs can be returned to good condition with the right cleaning agent and technique.

Once the urine is completely removed from a spot your cat has repeatedly soiled, try applying a few drops of a pure essential oil (I’ve used lemon, tangerine and lavender) on the area as a deterrent.

Unfortunately, urine occasionally soaks all the way through carpet and padding into the subfloor. If you can’t get rid the smell despite all your best cleaning efforts, you’ll need to remove that area of carpet and padding, neutralize the odor with an oil-based, stain-blocking primer on the subfloor and then replace the padding and carpet.

 

Cats and Holistic Décor!

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , ,

By Dr. Becker and comment by Diane Weinmann

Himalayan salt lamps are very popular these days. They’re used in homes to help beautify and refresh the indoor air and provide an attractive, soothing light. They come in a range of calming colors and interesting shapes. Unfortunately, these lovely lamps may pose an attractive nuisance in homes with pets, especially cats. Kitties, as we know, can jump or climb onto tabletops, dressers, nightstands, kitchen and bathroom counters, bookshelves … you get the idea.

Anywhere you might place a salt lamp around your home is probably accessible to your cat, and apparently there are kitties who enjoy licking the lamps. I have absolutely no idea how widespread this problem might be. Some cats seem to completely ignore the salt lamps in their homes, while others find them irresistible.

I have salt lamps everywhere in my house but my kitty has been in heaven for the past 2 years so I am not concerned.  I had them when he was in the home and he never seemed interested in them.  Thank goodness!   I know he will be coming back to me so I am glad to know this information and I will redecorate when that happens.

Salt Toxicity in Cats

The problem if your pet licks a salt lamp is that too much salt is toxic to cats (and dogs). In fact, the use of salt to induce vomiting in pets is no longer the standard of care and is absolutely not a recommended approach for either pet parents or veterinarians. Symptoms of salt poisoning include:

✓ Vomiting ✓ Walking drunk ✓ Tremors
✓ Diarrhea ✓ Abnormal fluid accumulation in the body ✓ Seizures
✓ Lack of appetite ✓ Excessive thirst or urination ✓ Coma
✓ Lethargy ✓ Potential kidney damage ✓ Death

Treatment for salt poisoning in pets includes administration of intravenous (IV) fluids, electrolyte monitoring, treatment for dehydration and brain swelling and supportive care.1

Besides salt lamps, other sources of salt around the house include table salt, rock salt (used in de-icers), seawater, homemade play dough, paint balls and enemas containing sodium phosphate. If you suspect your cat has been poisoned by salt, call your veterinarian or an emergency animal hospital immediately.

5 More Surprising Cat Toxins

  1. Topical Pain Medications Containing Flurbiprofen

Flurbiprofen is a human non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug (NSAID) applied to the skin to relieve muscle, joint or other pain. Cats are extremely sensitive to NSAIDs, and reports of five kitties who became ill after their owners applied the medications to their neck or feet prompted an FDA safety alert on these products.2

The medications the five cats ingested contained flurbiprofen and a variety of other active ingredients. Two cats in one family developed kidney failure but recovered with veterinary care. Three cats in another household weren’t so lucky. Two of the three developed symptoms that included lack of appetite, lethargy, vomiting, bloody stools, anemia and dilute urine. Sadly, all three ultimately died despite veterinary care.

Veterinarians performed necropsies on all three kitties and found evidence of NSAID toxicity. Since the pet owners applied the medicated cream or lotion to their own bodies and not directly to their cats, it’s reasonable to assume one of three likely scenarios occurred:

  • The owners applied their medications and then handled their cats without washing their hands
  • The kitties licked the medication off their owners’ skin
  • The cats rubbed up against their owners, transferring the medication to their fur, and then ingested it during grooming.
  1. Flea/Tick Spot-on Products for Dogs

Never, ever use a canine flea/tick product on your cat. Depending on the ingredients in the product, just a drop has the potential to kill a cat within hours. A few years ago, a newspaper in the Pittsburgh area told the heartbreaking story of four family cats who died over a four-week period because their owners treated them with spot-on products intended for dogs.3

In one tragic case, the owners noticed fleas on both their cats, so they applied “just a drop” of a topical spot-on flea treatment on each kitty. Within hours both cats were very sick and one was having convulsions. The owners immediately took both kitties to a veterinary clinic, but neither survived. In this case, the owners knew the flea treatment was intended for dogs, but figured a small amount would be safe for cats.

  1. Glow Sticks and Glow Jewelry

For reasons known only to them, many kitties enjoying gnawing on glow sticks and glow jewelry. So many, in fact that these items routinely appear on yearly top 10 cat toxin lists. The liquid inside glow sticks has a foul taste and may cause your cat to salivate excessively. More importantly, they also contain dibutyl phthalate, a chemical that can leak out and burn your cat’s fur and tongue. The plastic casing also poses a choking hazard.

  1. Detergent Pods

Most detergents and soaps contain ionic and anionic surfactants. When ingested in small amounts, these chemicals can cause GI upset in a pet, such as excessive drooling, vomiting or diarrhea. Fortunately, it’s unlikely your cat would have the opportunity or desire to ingest a large amount of bottled detergent.

Of more concern are those little brightly colored laundry detergent pods that smell good and look like candy or some other type of yummy treat to a small child or a pet. It’s conceivable that a pet might eat enough pods to cause an obstruction in the GI tract, but the greater danger of laundry and also dish detergent pods is actually the potential for a pet to bite into them and inhale the detergent.

The reason pods are more dangerous for pets than simply licking a bit of spilled detergent off the floor or their fur is the product formulation. The detergent in the pods is both highly concentrated and under pressure. If your kitty bites down on the pod, it can cause the liquid to be forcefully expelled and easily aspirated or swallowed, often in large amounts.

So even if you are using natural detergents in pods, there are still substantial risks. Detergent is foamy, and when an animal ingests it and then vomits, the foam can be pulled into the lungs. In a worst-case scenario, the detergent coats the airways and hampers oxygen exchange in the lungs, which causes suffocation.

  1. Plants, Specifically Oleanders This Time of Year

Many pet parents don’t realize how deadly the oleander plant can be if ingested by humans, dogs, cats, birds, horses, cows and other animals. The plant only grows in certain regions of the U.S. and isn’t especially attractive to animals, which is probably why many people are unaware of the danger it poses.

The common oleander is the prevalent species in the U.S., and is found primarily in warm regions of the south and southwest, California and Hawaii. Every part of the oleander plant, including the roots, stems, leaves, flowers, seeds, fruit, sap and nectar, contains naturally-occurring cardiac glycosides, which are toxins that directly affect the electrolyte balance within the heart muscle.

Even water in which oleander leaves are floating contains these toxins. The roots and stems of the plant contain the highest amount of cardiac glycosides, followed by the leaves and flowers. The most toxic oleanders are thought to be the plants with red flowers. Oleandrin is the most widely recognized of as many as 30 different cardiac glycosides found in oleanders. Oleandrin acts similarly to the human and veterinary drug digoxin, which is used in the treatment of a variety of heart conditions.

 

Personally I had no idea all these items could be potential problems for cat households!  Please take precautions to keep your furry loved one safe!

 

Are European Dogs Born Well-Behaved?

Diane Weinmann Animal Communication ,

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmann

If you’ve ever visited Europe, you might have noticed that European pets, generally speaking, are quite well-behaved — maybe more so than dogs born and raised in the U.S.

One couple who moved from Dallas to London found that perhaps their dogs weren’t quite “ready for prime time” in comparison with the dogs that had been raised in their new country. They wondered if it was just their imagination. Determined to get to the bottom of their growing suspicion that their pups might need a little more tweaking in the behavioral department, they asked a friend, who happened to be a professional dog trainer, to give them some pointers.

Throughout Belgium, France and other places throughout the United Kingdom, Kama Brown, a certified professional dog trainer-knowledge assessed (CPDT-KA), kept her eye peeled for any wisdom she could glean regarding European dogs, as well as their owners.1

Is It Me or Is It My Dog?

One of the first things Brown noticed was the freedom most dogs enjoyed, but well-deserved. She was intrigued to see that most dogs were off leash, even when they visited museums, toy stores and markets and rode on trains, trolleys and elevators. Only when waterfowl were present were European dogs leashed.

She also noticed that when children wanted to approach dogs on the street, they were told to “avoid distracting them,” and that admonition was consistent everywhere. Dogs weren’t asked to wait while their owners went inside stores or eateries, or to lie under tables on the train or tram. The dogs did so without being told. Still, Brown observed:

“Young dogs in Europe did the same things as young dogs in America. A [9]-month-old black Labrador jumped onto a counter to sniff the cheese selection at the market. A small mixed breed stopped to sniff each interesting spot.

When a young Bulldog resisted going down the stairs to the Underground, the owner coaxed him down each new step. A man with a very young puppy walked quickly to keep the puppy from picking up objects he found along the way. Nothing I saw made me think that European dogs were born well behaved.”2

Another of her observations was that dogs were basically ignored. No one fawned over them, asked owners if they could give their pets food morsels or even pet them. The non-interaction extended to other dogs; owners avoided letting their dogs sniff, stand near or play with other dogs.

How Dogs in Europe Are Trained to Behave

The more Brown found herself in areas where dogs were plentiful, the more she realized what she was seeing was very close to the way service dogs are trained and treated in the U.S. Owners do their best to maintain a calm, comfortable environment, which encourages them to be calm and quiet, as well.

When service dogs in the U.S. walk through crowds or encounter people, their owners and trainers are always pleased when no one approaches them to pet them, talk to them or get in their dogs’ space. Strangers, when wise, don’t encourage interaction at all with dogs they’re not familiar with, and that’s how owners of service dogs typically like it.

The simple reason for this is that such interaction does distract dogs. It puts them in conflict, even in the presence of their owners, because the signals aren’t consistent. Brown explains:

“We treat service dogs this way because we understand that interacting with them makes training harder for their handler. When strangers frequently offer treats and attention, or allow their dogs to rush into another dog’s space, it produces specific emotional responses, which will arise each time a new person or a strange dog approaches. Sometimes, this emotion is pleasure, but more often, anxiety, over-exuberance or defensive behavior is manifested.”3

Strangers’ Interaction With Dogs Distracts and Confuses Them

One of the most interesting phenomena on this side of the pond is how little most people, including dog owners, understand that lavishing praise and conversation on any and all dogs is setting those dogs and owners up for failure, Brown asserts. Further, the fact that dogs aren’t restricted from many areas helps them become more acclimated to different environments, which helps them remain calm rather than unsure of what’s happening and how to respond. Brown says:

“If being taken to new places were a regular occurrence, it would not excite a dog into lunging through doorways. If barking and pulling were consistently ignored in young dogs, those behaviors could never become a game or a way to get attention. Unlike the restrictions put on U.S. dog owners, Europeans are able to consistently expose their dogs to new sounds, sights and smells, which mentally enriches the dogs without overstimulating them.”4

Determining not to acknowledge a dog you (or your children) are not familiar with may be one of the best things you can do for them. Owners don’t have to calm or reassure dogs that become overexcited when strangers don’t approach or engage them. Brown says that lack of distraction allows dogs to relax and focus on their owners.

The upshot for Brown’s newly planted London dwellers was that they could relax, too. Just living in a European city would be three-quarters of the way toward success because their dogs would be ignored! The key to socialization was their dogs’ simple presence — not constant attention. Other than bonding with their pup or pups and teaching basic manners, nothing else would be needed. Except perhaps a little “schooling” for over-attentive dog lovers.

I can tell you that when I was on Santa Margarita (wonderful place in Italy) I wandered into a non-descript church but was completely amazed at the interior that was breath-taking!  As I stayed to enjoy the mass and the ambience I realized that there were dogs all over in the church just laying at the owner’s feet.  I thought this was the greatest thing since sliced bread and I highly recommend that our beloved USA get a clue!

Cat Scoot—is this a new dance??

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , , ,

Cat Scoot—is this a new dance??

 

By Geoff Williams and comments by Diane Weinmann

If you have ever tried to explain the concept of cat scooting to your friends, you probably quickly realized that there is no graceful way to put it. If your cat is scooting, your cat’s butt is dragging along the carpet or ground.

 

Scooting or butt dragging is a problem far more common among dog owners, but it does occasionally happen to cats. And while it may look funny or strange, cat scooting could signal a medical problem that needs to be addressed.

 

Why do Cats Scoot?

“Scooting is normally associated with pruritus of the posterior end,” says Jim Lowe, a technical services veterinarian with Tomlyn, a company that makes pet healthcare products. Pruritus is a medical term for severe itching of the skin.

 

While it’s fairly rare, this can happen to any cat—there is no particular breed that experiences it more than another. And the reasons your cat’s bottom is itching, Lowe says, might be due to a number of factors, including parasites, impacted anal glands and allergies.

 

Cat Scooting and Parasites

If your cat is dragging its bottom on the carpet, there’s a chance your cat has worms. Parasitic worms, such as tapeworms, can cause irritation to the posterior area. And while you may check your cat’s stool for worms, you may not be able to see them.

 

“Just because the owner doesn’t see the worms doesn’t mean that they aren’t there,” says Dr. Carol Osborne, who owns the Chagrin Falls Veterinary Center and Pet Clinic in Chagrin Falls, Ohio. Most worms only become visible in the stool after deworming, and sometimes not even then.

 

And if you do see worms, your cat is likely experiencing discomfort, Osborne says. In other words, get your cat to a vet immediately.

Cat Scooting and Impacted Anal Sacs

All cats have anal sacs located near the opening of the anus. Inside those sacs is a dark, smelly and slightly oily liquid.

 

“The anal sacs typically release their contents when a cat defecates,” says Laura Pletz, a St. Charles, Missouri-based veterinarian.

 

But when the sacs get clogged, they are considered impacted. That means the sacs don’t express when your cat goes to the bathroom, and the area becomes irritated, potentially causing your cat to scoot. In severe cases, a cat’s anal sacs can become infected, which is even more painful.

 

Cat Scooting and Allergies

If you see your cat dragging his or her bottom, there may be something in or around your home affecting the feline.

 

“Environmental allergies are caused by many things, such as dust mites, grasses, molds or fleas,” Pletz says.

 

The problem may also be due to whatever you’re feeding your cat. “Food allergies are typically an allergy to a particular protein source, such as chicken or beef,” Pletz says.

 

Pletz says that there are medical therapies that can help with scooting caused by environmental allergies, but if there is a food allergy contributing, your veterinarian will likely be putting your cat on a new diet.

 

What You Should Do if You See Your Cat Scooting

Your cat scooting action plan is pretty simple—if you don’t want to rush to the vet, start by taking a close look underneath your cat’s tail. Maybe there are some dried feces or another irritant there that is causing your cat to scoot. If so, simply wash gently underneath your cat’s tail and monitor his or her behavior to watch for scooting.

 

But if you don’t see an obvious culprit for your cat’s scooting, then contact your vet and get your pet checked out. Your vet may be able to express your cat’s anal sacs, check for problem-causing parasites, recommend a different diet or prescribe antibiotics or anti-itch medications.

 

My mother-in-law’s cat is constantly leaving a poop trail on the floors in her kitchen, living room and bedroom.  Obviously a vet visit will be required to fix this situation.  But I must admit, it’s a hoot to watch him slide around on the floor.  Wonder if he could ride a skate board??

 

 

Trail Riding First Aid

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet , ,

Learn first aid for hoof emergencies in one of the most inconvenient environments you and your horse will encounter – out on the trail.

Accidents happen. And hoof injuries tend to elicit the most anxiety and worry from horse owners, because they remind us of that all-too-common adage – no hoof, no horse. They can occur at any time, but can be of particular concern when you’re out on the trail, far from the barn’s first aid kit, the cold hose and your veterinarian’s number.

Cuts, abrasions and puncture wounds are the most commonly seen injuries out on the trail or during the regular roadside hack. The best advice is to pack a basic emergency kit whenever you are out on the trail, although I’m sure we’ve all gone off for a “quiet hack down the road” with no thought of packing a first aid kit. If nothing else, at least pack a hoof pick for any ride – fold-up picks fit nicely into a pocket, or can be safely tied to a saddle.

Cuts and Abrasions

The equine foot is a highly vascular structure, and cuts or abrasions to the coronet band or heel bulbs will often produce a lot of blood and can appear quite alarming. However, bleeding helps to naturally cleanse a wound, so take a deep breath and let the blood flow for a little while before attempting to stop it. If you are near a clean water source, standing the horse in running water can be beneficial as it cleans without abrading healthy skin, slows the blood flow, helps ward off swelling and lessens sensation and pain. Be aware that some water sources can harbor bacteria that are best kept out of an open wound – common sense must prevail.

If you do carry a small first aid kit, it is a good idea to pack a small spray bottle containing a tea tree oil mixture. This will address immediate concerns about infection. If the cut appears deep, is fairly large, or if there are loose flaps of skin, the hoof should be wrapped for the walk home. A quick interim “hoof boot” can be made with gauze, vet wrap, and of course, duct tape!

Puncture Wounds

These are something you definitely want to try and avoid. Foreign bodies such as nails, fencing staples, broken glass, sharp flints or broken wire, can all pose a hazard. Punctures that penetrate the hoof’s horny sole or frog and enter the sensitive tissues below can vary from trivial to fatal, depending on the depth and follow-up treatment. If nothing else, be sure to have your horse’s tetanus shots up to date!

So, what if you are out riding and pick up a nail or foreign object from the trail? Clean and examine the foot as thoroughly as possible. If you were at home, it might be best to leave the puncture object alone until your vet arrives. Generally, this is not a feasible option when out on a trail, some distance from the barn. It may be necessary to remove the item in order to make the trek home without causing further damage. If you do remove it, keep it to show your veterinarian later. Again, tea tree oil applied directly into the puncture can help keep the wound clean, and a gauze/duct tape wrap will get you home.

Little else can be done on the trail, but a call to your vet is recommended as soon as you return to the barn. Deep penetration wounds are susceptible to infection, in which pus and gas will build up in the hoof. If the pressure builds up within the hoof and no drainage is provided, the pus may eventually run under the sole and up the white line before bursting out at the coronary band. Depending on the nature and placement of the object invading the foot, your veterinarian may suggest x-rays to see if there is any damage to the internal structures and hoof bones.

Hoof Protection For All

Barefoot horses that enjoy the benefit of natural hoof care, including proper trimming, a healthy environment and good nutrition, will grow a strong hoof with over ½” of hard callused sole, a solid rubbery frog and often a ¼” thick strong hoof wall. Certain wounds can still occur, but are less likely. A naturally barefoot hoof has excellent sensory receptors in the frog and sole, so the horse can often avoid serious injury by immediately detecting dangerous footing.

Shod horses, or those subject to improper trimming methods and compromised hoof mechanism and form, are generally more susceptible to injuries on the trail and elsewhere. Riders of such horses are strongly advised to carry an emergency hoof boot in the event of a lost shoe. That said, an extra hoof boot should be included in anyone’s first aid kit!

A small utility tool, such as a leatherman, may also be useful if your horse has shoes. Shoes that are only half off are more of a concern than a shoe that is lost entirely. A leatherman can often be used to pull any remaining nails, or to nail a loose shoe back on. Once again, duct tape is your friend. Wrap the hoof wall and shoe in a figure eight pattern, but avoid taping above the coronet band unless you’ve put a layer of vet wrap down first – the hair will get stuck to the duct tape and can cause problems during removal.

While accidents can and do happen, a little precaution can help you avoid many trail injuries and prepare you to effectively deal with those that do occur.

Johanna Neuteboom is a professional barefoot trimmer and natural horse care advocate, living and working in the Muskoka region of Ontario. For more information on her services, visit barnboots.ca.

 

Problem Urination in Dogs

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet ,

By Dr. Becker

If when you arrive home your excited, delighted dog leaves a little puddle of pee at your feet (or even on your feet), it could be your furry family member is dealing with a submissive or excitement urination problem.

It’s important to understand your piddling pooch has very little control over the situation, so it’s pointless, unkind and confusing to punish her for the behavior.

The first thing to do is make an appointment with your veterinarian to rule out a physical cause for her random peeing. Urinary incontinence is a disorder with similar symptoms but very different causes.

These can include a birth defect, central nervous system trauma, damage to the pudendal nerve, bladder stones or a urethral obstruction, age or hormone-related incontinence, or a disease of the kidneys, adrenal glands, or the bladder (including infection).

Many causes of urinary incontinence are serious and require medical intervention, so it’s essential to rule all those things out before deciding your dog’s dribbling problem is behavioral in nature.

Once your veterinarian gives your pet a clean bill of health, the next step is to determine the trigger for his inappropriate urination.

Excitement Urination

Generally speaking, if your dog doesn’t pee when you look him in the eye, bend over him, or greet him face-to-face – in other words, when you’re in what canines consider a dominant position – he’s an excited rather than a submissive dribbler.

His triggers are probably playtime and when family members come home or guests drop by. If he’s still a puppy, he’ll quite likely outgrow the problem if addressed correctly, so the challenge is to avoid as many triggers as possible.

Managing Excitement Triggers

Take playtime outdoors whenever possible, and when it isn’t possible, make sure your dog has had a chance to relieve himself before engaging in play. Prepare an area of your floor with newspaper or puppy pads before play begins.

This should help keep accidents to a minimum, but when he has one (and he will), don’t discipline or punish him.

The best approach is to simply stop the action, grab some treats, and take him outside to his potty spot (or to his puppy pad). Give him lavish praise and treats the second he pees where he should. Once that’s done, clean the floor without making a fuss.

If your dog tends to leak when you come home, make sure to keep greetings on your end very low key. Move around quietly and speak in a calm, soothing tone.

If that doesn’t alleviate the leaking, try ignoring him when you first arrive home to help him learn to calm down on his own. Once he’s relaxed and if he hasn’t peed, offer him praise and treats.

Boosting a Submissive Dog’s Self-Confidence

Submissive peeing is most often seen in timid, nervous, shy dogs. Common triggers for these dogs include being greeted or approached by someone, or being yelled at or disciplined. Many pets with this problem have a history of receiving harsh punishment for peeing accidents.

If your dog has a submissive urination problem, it’s extremely important to avoid scolding or punishing her when she has an accident. This will only increase her anxiety and make peeing mistakes more likely.

A much better approach is to give your dog plenty of affirmative, high quality attention to build her confidence. Use positive reinforcement behavior training to teach her basic commands like sit, stay, come, and drop it, as well as simple tricks. Lavish her with praise each time she does what you ask.

The goal is to give your dog tons of opportunities to succeed and earn praise, while avoiding situations that trigger submissive peeing.

How to Approach a Submissive Dog

It’s also important to approach a submissive dog using non-dominant body language, which means you should:

·     Avoid direct eye contact

·     Approach from the side vs. head-on

·     Lower yourself to your dog’s level

·     Scratch her under the chin vs. the top of the head

When your shy dog has an accident (and she will), as I mentioned earlier, it’s extremely important not to raise your voice or punish her. Instead, handle the situation as I outlined above for dogs with excitement peeing.

Calmly get a few treats and take your pup outside to her potty spot (or to her puppy pad). Praise her like crazy and offer treats the second she pees where she should.

If she tends to dribble when you arrive home, make sure to keep greetings low key. You can also try ignoring her when you first come through the door to help her learn to self-soothe. Once she’s calm and as long as she hasn’t peed, give her some loving attention and treats.

Additional Suggestions

Something else to consider is a wrap (belly band) for male dogs or bloomers (I call them hot pants) if your dog is female.

 

You can put it on before indoor playtime or when you’re expecting guests. It’s important to remove it once the situational trigger has passed, since you never want to leave urine against your dog’s skin.

A wrap or bloomers will not only save your floor, it may also help gently remind your pup that if he pees, he won’t be able to walk away from it. Canines are naturally disinclined to soil themselves. I have clients whose dogs have been completely cured of excited or submissive urination after a few weeks or months of wearing a wrap.

It’s also important with a leaky dog to continue to offer lots of praise and treats whenever he pees in his outdoor potty spot and on walks.

 

My Moment

Diane Weinmann A Tail of Hope's Faith, Animal Communication, Animal Health, animal hospice, healing your pet

 

Do you ever get down in the dumps?  Feel like life is going nowhere or that it is not what you planned or expected?  We’ve all been there.  Life can be a real downer sometimes.  I am not going to sit here and tell you that there is a silver lining and that you should count your blessings but I will tell you how I handle those set- backs in my life.  I remember.

 

It came to me as I was convalescing from a terrible accident that caused me to have three operations and forced me to stop doing one of the things in life that brought me my greatest joy—horseback riding.  I have had horse for 42 years and now I am horse-less thanks to this accident.  In order to try to bring sense to my life I pondered on what gave me joy.  I am truly blessed with a wonderful family, friends and I am retired from my 9-5 banking job.  This freedom enabled me to concentrate my talents where my heart always led me all my life—to animals.

 

So then I thought, what has been my defining moment in my life?  Was it my wedding? No, I am happily married to a wonderful man, who I love with all my heart, but that was not a defining moment for me.  Was my moment when I gave birth to my pride and joy –my son?  No, although I have been blessed to have a great child who is the one of the biggest blessing I have in life– his birth was not my defining moment.  Was it the 35 years I spent in banking, working myself up from entry level to being in charge or over 50 people?  Definitely not!  That was what I had to do to survive. It was a career, not just a job, but I wasn’t doing what I longed for–what made my heart sing.

You know what I mean by defining moment—when you are so proud of what you, yourself, have accomplished, on your own, using your own talents? Then I closed my eyes and thought what have I done that made me proud to be me?  Then it came to me—I saw myself, standing up behind a podium talking at my book launch party about the book I had written.  A Tail of Hope’s Faith was an accumulation of years of learning, practicing and working with animals.  It defines who I am deep down inside—it is who I am and who I will always want to be and what I believe in my soul. 

So when I get down in the dumps, when I think life is not as interesting without my precious horses in it– I picture myself behind that podium.  I smile and tears come to my eyes as I remember that moment.  I am so very proud that I was able to change someone’s life, to bring comfort and healing to an animal and her family and then to document it for anyone else who may be going through the same experience of a terminally ill pet.  That’s my moment—that’s what I am proudest of! 

What is your moment?  We all have one.  Think about it and then recall it whenever you need a reminder that you are freaking awesome and no one can take that away from you!

Tips On Walking Multiple Dogs

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , ,

Tips On Walking Multiple Dogs 

by Chamois Beal Lopez

Featured in Animal Wellness Magazine ~ Vol. 16 Issue 1

 

Walking two or more dogs at once is fun, but can be difficult and even dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Linda has three dogs – a Rottweiler, retriever and a feisty border terrier mix. She walks all of them twice a day, at the same time. One afternoon, she found a lost shepherd mix in her office parking lot, and welcomed the stray into her household until she found her a permanent home.

All four dogs adapted relatively well to one another. Then, Linda took them out for their first walk as a pack. Things progressed smoothly until the shepherd mix laid eyes on another passing dog. Suddenly, she lunged at one of her fellow pack mates with shocking aggression. An experienced multi-dog walker, Linda was able to bring the situation under control, but in other hands, it could have been disastrous.

According to the American Veterinary Medical Association, approximately 43 million households have more than one dog. And caring canine parents want to exercise those dogs. When time is at a premium, as it so often is, walking two or more dogs at once seems like a great idea. But it can pose some problems if you’re not prepared. J.D. Antell, dog walking expert and author of The Dog Walker’s Start-up Guide, says that before a multi-dog walking experience, you need to make a plan that includes training, safety and proper equipment.

Training is paramount

Walking several untrained dogs at once can pose a danger not only to you, but to innocent bystanders as well. Training techniques should start as early as possible in a dog’s life. “It’s preferable to walk one dog at a time, particularly in the beginning stages of training, because having more than one dog around can be distracting while teaching,” says Mychelle Blake, a dog training expert and President of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She adds that training allows you to acclimatize to each dog’s temperament and agility.

Although training should be consistent for satisfactory results, it doesn’t need to be elaborate. “Sit” and “stay” commands should be included, and a game called “no pull” can be very useful –if the dog walks forward and causes the leash to tighten, stop until he returns to walk at your side.

Gear for pack walking

When you’re walking multiple canines, choose proper collars, harnesses and leashes for each dog’s specific needs and temperament.

Collars – Look for sturdy, quality materials, and ensure that collars are neither too tight nor too loose on the dogs’ necks. If you have one or more dogs that insist on pulling, a harness might be a better bet. Do not use choke chains.

Harness – Again, durable quality products are safer and more comfortable for the dog. A harness relieves neck pressure and avoids choking dogs with weak windpipes or respiratory problems.

Leads – Choose a strong lead approximately 4’ to 6’ feet in length to provide reasonable security for a multi-dog walk. “Do not walk multiple dogs on fl exible leads,” Mychelle says. “It’s a recipe for trouble.”

Coupler – This nylon extension (designed for multidog walking) divides in two to separate each leash and reduce tangling.

Reconciling differences A multi-dog walk may include canines of any size, age, personality and activity level. The idea of walking two terriers and a German shepherd together may tempt you to think twice, but these differences shouldn’t deter you. Nevertheless, it’s important to gauge each dog individually, as well as how he relates to the others in his pack. “Age is not so much a factor except when we are talking about puppies versus mature dogs,” says Antell. Puppies are generally more energetic than older dogs and their differences might create an alarming conflict unless the dogs have already adapted comfortably within the same household. “In most cases, you will be able to group dogs together by activity level,” Antell says. For instance, if a couple of dainty Pomeranians are going to walk with a Rottweiler and a Doberman, put the needs of the least physically able dog first. “Assuming they are social and friendly with each other, the specific method is to cater to the least physically capable among the group. Of course, this means the younger or more physically active dogs will not enjoy as active a walk as they might like, but you have not compromised the health of the most vulnerable dog either.”

Safety first

Safety is a top priority when walking multiple dogs, and you must factor in your own capabilities, such as fitness level, vigilance and speed.

• Physics play a major role in keeping a pack under control. For example, a 120-pound woman should think twice about walking two 150-pound English mastiffs simultaneously. The weight of the woman compared to the dogs’ combined weight means they could easily drag her off her feet on a wild pursuit after a squirrel or rabbit. In a case like this, it is best to ask a partner or friend to walk one of the dogs.

• If any of your dogs become easily agitated or even aggressive, scan the environment continuously during your walk. Go for walks during off-peak hours when there is less traffic or other dog walkers, to minimize your own dogs’ excitability.

• “If you feel apprehensive about walking more than one dog at a time, I would suggest recruiting another person to walk with you as a backup,” says Mychelle.

It doesn’t matter whether you have two dogs or six. If they’re trained, sociable and well behaved, and if you have the right gear and are keeping everyone’s safety and comfort in mind, it can be a wonderful way for you to step out together. Best of all, no one has to be left at home!

 

Is It Normal to Talk to Pets?

Diane Weinmann Animal Communication

Is It Normal to Talk to Pets?

by Dr. Elfenbein

I talk to my dog. I also talk to all the other dogs at the dog park. I may not be a “normal” person in all respects, but I don’t think this is one of my questionable character traits. I think it’s totally normal to talk to animals—and not just to ask if they want to play fetch.

 

From the time I was a little kid, I talked to my dog. I could tell him anything, and he wouldn’t judge me or tell me what I should do. As I’ve grown up, the contents of the conversations have changed, but I still turn to my animals to say things that I can’t or don’t want to tell another person. Sometimes we just need to say what’s on our minds, and cats and dogs lend a willing ear. There is no need to hold back what we say for their sake.

 

Pets Can Recognize Human Emotion

 

Some people say that talking to my pets means I am anthropomorphizing them, or assigning human characteristics to non-human entities. I disagree. Dogs and cats have evolved side by-side with humans for tens of thousands of years to understand human emotion. Much of that is probably based on our body language, but the tone of our voice also tells our furry family members how we feel. Those clues tell our dogs and cats what we need from them.

 

I don’t think that my dog knows what I’m telling him, but he knows the way my voice sounds when I’m sad, tired, or frustrated, and he tries to make me feel better. There were many nights during veterinary school when I put my head next to my cat to listen to his purr as I cried to him about feeling overwhelmed. Talking to my pets helps me feel better and, bigger picture, it’s a way to strengthen our bond.

 

On the flipside, your dog will learn to understand more words than just “sit” and “dog park.” Be consistent when you are talking to your pet with the intention that they learn the meaning of what you say or take an action as a result of the word. For example, “off” and “down” might mean the same thing to you when your puppy jumps, but you might also use “down” to mean a laying position. That can be confusing for your pup, which can slow down the training process.

 

Pets Offer Unconditional Love

 

We invite dogs and cats into our family for their unconditional love—their willingness to listen to all of our complaints and tolerate all of our bad habits and love us anyway. In my opinion, anything we can do to make our pets know how important they are is a good thing. Talking to them, unlike giving them treats, won’t cause side effects like weight gain. Pets are meant to be spoiled, and including them in conversation is one way to express how much we love them.

 

Talking to our dogs and cats is also key to the science that says pets are important for mental and physical health. According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, pet parents are less likely to feel lonely than those who live without pets. I think part of that is having someone who always listens. There is also research that shows that talking in a happy tone if you are feeling sad or angry can actually help you feel happier—just like fake laughing can turn into real laughing.

 

My dog is my companion. He goes on walks and runs with me, he hangs out with me in the apartment, he drives with me to work, and he’s always ready for an adventure. With that much time together, I can’t imagine not talking to him about all the things that happen in between our cuddle sessions.

 

Dr. Elfenbein is a veterinarian and animal behaviorist located in Atlanta. Her mission is to provide pet parents with the information they need to have happy, and healthy, and fulfilled relationships with their dogs and cats.

 

How to Treat Dog Wounds at Home

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet ,

by Dr. Jennifer Coates

Let’s talk about how to treat minor scrapes or cuts on your dog at home … emphasis on the minor! Any injury that fully penetrates the skin (e.g., a bite wound) and/or involves a large portion of the body or an especially sensitive area should receive immediate veterinary attention.

 We are talking about the equivalent of a scraped knee or shallow cut here. Even minor wounds should be dealt with promptly, before infection sets in. If the skin around the wound is inflamed or pus is visible, more aggressive treatment than what you can provide at home is probably needed.

 If you have any doubts as to the severity of your pet’s injury, play it safe and make an appointment with your veterinarian. Only attempt wound care if you are confident that a pet will not react aggressively to the procedure. If need be, recruit an assistant to help with restraint, and use a muzzle.

Supplies Needed

 ·         Water-based lubricant (e.g., KY jelly – not Vaseline)

·         Electric clippers, scissors, or razor

·         Warm water

·         Clean towels (paper or cloth)

·         Antiseptic solution

·         Antimicrobial ointment

 How to Treat a Dog Wound

 ·         Place a small dog on a table or counter in front of you or get down on the ground with a large dog. Have a second person gently restrain the pet if necessary.

·         Cover the wound and surrounding area with a water-based lubricant. This makes removing shaved hair from the wound much easier and decreases contamination.

·         Use electric clippers to shave the hair from around the wound. Scissors or a disposable razor can be used with extreme caution to avoid cutting the skin.

·         Wipe the water-based lubricant and hair away with a clean, dry cloth or paper towel.

·         Wash the area with warm water until all visible debris is gone, then pat dry.

·         Apply a non-stinging antiseptic solution to the area. Chlorhexidine is cheap, extremely effective, and readily available. I prefer a 2% solution to limit tissue irritation but 4% solutions are also widely used. Chlorhexidine is ideal because it kills the types of bacteria and yeast that are most commonly associated with skin infections in dogs and cats.

·         Apply an antimicrobial ointment to the wound. Traumatic injuries are best treated with a broad spectrum topical antibiotic like those containing bacitracin, neomycin, and polymyxin B. If yeast is of primary concern, for example in dogs with allergies that develop moist dermatitis, miconazole ointment is a good choice.

·         Prevent the pet from grooming the ointment off its skin for at least ten minutes; longer is even better. Take a dog for a walk or sit with a cat in your lap but do not apply a bandage over the area.

·         Two to three times a day, clean away debris (if necessary) and apply the antiseptic and ointment until the skin is healed.

·         If the wound worsens at any time or fails to resolve within a week, consult a veterinarian.