Do you have a good feeling when the phone rings? Do you seem to know who is on the other line when they call without the use of caller ID?

Do you sense when something terrible is about to happen?

Do you have dreams that seem to come true?

Have you ever smelled something associated with a person who has passed into spirit?

Well, you might be what some of us that are considered…yep you guessed it—you must be physic!

Let’s break down what this means to you and how you can tell what categories your talents may lie…

Clairvoyance: (Clear-seeing) The ability to exchange mental pictures & even “film-clips” (moving sequences of events) to & from the mind of your animal, human friends and family. When you see a ghost, spirit guide or a deceased loved one that is also clairvoyance. I see visions, like movies, playing right before my eyes when I zone out. Those “movies or visions” are achieved using clairvoyance. Once I saw my husband come out of a pizza store holding a pizza, walking to the car and falling down flat due to ice on the parking lot. I didn’t say a thing, because I thought I was wrong and when he came out I ALMOST rolled down the window to tell him to be careful walking but before I could get my hand to the window…you guessed it- down he went (he was unharmed and the pizza was no worst for the wear and tear). I learned to trust this gift.

• Clairsentience: (Clear-feeling or sensing) The ability to send and receive emotion to and from your animal friends or departed loved ones and even from the living. Ever feel creeped out when you meet someone new..ah you have sensed that all is not as it should be or feel someone is behind you even when no one is there and you just know it’s your departed grandma? You are using clairsentiene. I can sense when a ghost is present and can tell my husband where to point a camera to obtain a picture of an orb (ghost photo).
• Clairaudience: (Clear-hearing) The ability to hear telepathic information in whatever language you speak. This gift receives information as it comes into your mind as thoughts. I used this gift constantly when I talk with animals…in essence it is mental telepathy. When you use this gift it is hard to distinguish between your own thoughts and those of others sending it to you because it all sounds like it’s the same (no change in tone.) With animals, the minute a thought comes into your head after you’ve asked a question, that is the answer from the pet. For example, I’ve asked a dog what his favorite treat was and I immediately was shown melon (watermelon. honeydew, cantaloupe).   I knew this was coming directly from the dog because in my wildest imagination I would not ever think that melon would be a favorite treat. I received my confirmation from the pet owner when I explained what I saw. It seemed the dog was gaga for any type of melon. Who knew?! Another time, I was packing for a vacation and was trying to figure out what to pack for my teenage son. All of a sudden the phone rings and my son on the other end says “did you want me mom”? You guessed it- he has the gift too, inherited from dear ol’ mom!
• Clairgustance: (Clear-smelling) The ability to smell things that are not physically present. For example., if a deceased relative visits and brings with her a scent of her perfume, aftershave, cigars, liquor etc.   Whenever I smell cherry pipe tobacco I know my grandfather is visiting me and my dad sends the smell of JB Scotch to his granddaughter (her son is named after my dad and we call him JB for short).
• X-ray Vision: (Medical Gestalt) The ability to use your body as an instrument to determine if and where your animals are in pain. I can ask a pet so let me see inside them to understand where a problem will b. Unfortunately, I don’t really understand what I am looking at (no medical training) so I can see something and not understand what it means. Once I saw a black spot on the hip of a dog and the owner told me that’s where the dog has arthritis.
• Mediumship: The ability to send & receive messages from beloved animals along with departed family members and friends that are deceased. I do this often as I talked with deceased pets and people almost daily. I perform channeling,bringing information forward from pets, angels, spirit guides, animal totems, and departed loved ones for myself, my clients and for my friends and family.
• Remote Viewing : Remoting viewings is when you are able to obtain information about a place, person, event or object that is located somewhere else and completely blind to the person doing the viewing. For example, when I connect to animals at a distance using nothing but a picture of the animal I am using remote viewing. This is a HUGE amount of my animal communication business. I prefer to talk at a distance when the pet is not distracted by my physical presence (oh boy, someone new) or from a different environment. We all know how excitable a pet can become when brought to a new house or to visit someone – they can’t seem to focus on what their owner is telling them much less a stranger!

As you can tell from the explanation above, I am a full service physic because I do it all. This is not the case with everyone. Some people can do one or multiple facets of the physic gifts. God bless my great grandmother, my grandmother and my mom for passing down the greatest heritage gift of all—being physic. By the way—did you know that a lot of times it is hereditary?   Ask about your ancestors to see if these gifts run in your lineage.   Happy Halloween!

Three Steps for Keeping Healthy Weight for Pets

By Dr. Becker and Diane Weinmann

As you know your pets can become overweight (like most of us, me especially) or can be difficult to keep weight on in their “golden” years.  It is very hard to maintain a perfect weight for your pet.

Here are three necessary steps to keeping your pet at a healthy weight and in good physical condition:

• Feed a balanced, species-appropriate diet. Be aware that many low-calorie or “diet” pet foods are filled with grains that may add to your pet’s weight problem. A high-quality raw food diet is an excellent choice for most pets in need of weight loss.  I personally prefer grain free because it is best for dogs that have allergies.
• Practice portion control.  Make sure that if you feed a morning and evening meal that it is carefully measured.  A high-protein, low-carb diet with the right amount of calories for weight loss, controlled through the portions you feed, is what will take the weight off your dog or cat. And don’t forget to factor in any calories from treats as these can really add up.  Provide treats that are low in calories like fresh vegetables and fruit making sure to not feed raisins, grapes, onions or chocolate to your pets. You can give frozen beef, chicken or tuna broth in ice cube trays for a healthy snack to your pet.
• Regularly exercise your pet. Daily exercise, including at least 20 minutes of consistent aerobic activity, will help your pet burn fat and increase muscle tone. If you’re unable to provide your pet with this level of exercise (and some pets may need even more), you might consider joining a pet sports club or at least a doggy daycare that gets your pet moving. Another option is to hire a dog walker (or a cat walker).  I recommend JoyCares Personalized Pet Service for your pet walking needs.  They are a great home-grown business that has consistently won awards for their service.  Call 216-281-8701 if you are located in the greater Cleveland OH area. For cats chasing a flashlight, laser, string with toy attached or feather is great exercise.  If you dog is a hard core “fetcher” you can just play ball and watch the pounds drop off.
• Don’t forget, what is good for the goose is good for the gander– so to speak!  As your pet is dieting or eating right, getting the appropriate amount of exercise and maintaining wellness so will you if you participate in their endeavor!

By Dr. Becker and Diane Weinmann 

Cats have a reputation for being silent and difficult to know, unlike dogs, who are typically much more vocal and physically demonstrative.

Of course, some cats are more outspoken than others and as their guardians will attest, do indeed communicate with their meows and other vocalizations.

Whether your feline friend is a chatty cat or the strong silent type, learning about his body language, behavior, and the sounds he makes can deepen the bond you share with him, and improve communication between you.

The good news is that it’s not really that difficult to learn to read many of your cat’s communication signals, including what that look in his eyes means, or the tone of his meow, or the position of his ears, or the way he’s holding or moving his tail.

The information below is from a vet’s point of view. If you would want to REALLY talk with your pet, understand what they want and have to say you would want to contact an animal communicator, like me! You can obtain a reading with your pet by emailing me at Dianefortheloveofanimals@yahoo.com with a list of your questions, a photo of your pet, the amount of time you’d like me to spend (fee is $1 per minute) and your phone number. I will perform the reading, call you with the information your pet told me, email the information to you along with my bill. Easy, right? You’d be surprised to hear what your pet’s have to say! What would you hear if you’d just listen?????

Interpreting Your Cat’s Vocalizations

Cats actually have a rather extensive repertoire of vocalizations. You may know the difference between your cat’s dinnertime meow, for example, and the way she sounds if she’s frightened or annoyed. But many kitty sounds and intonations are more subtle and don’t fit a particular pattern, which can make them harder to interpret.

Here’s a cheat sheet for decoding some common kitty chatter:1

Reading Feline Facial Expressions

Now let’s take a look at Miss Kitty’s facial expressions, because they are also important in understanding her moods and how she’s feeling:2

Understanding Your Cat’s Body Language

Finally, the way your cat holds his body can also give you information about how he’s feeling and whether he might need reassurance, some space, or a nice kitty massage:3

How to Choose a Dog Walker

By Erin Taylor and Diane Weinmann

You’re a busy professional, perhaps overseeing a young family.

You’re juggling more balls than you care to count.

Getting a little help can make a big difference, and these days many dog owners turn to dog walkers to take a daily task off their plates.

But in light of the recent tragedy involving the death of six dogs left in a too-warm car by their dog walker, you may be questioning this decision.

Does my dog walker know what he or she is doing?

How do I choose who to trust with my four-legged family member?

Professional dog walking has grown rapidly over the last ten years, and more and more dog lovers enter the field every day. What most dog owners don’t realize is that, because walking is a young business, there is currently no regulating body to dictate the standards of care or qualifications for the work. In short, anyone can call themselves a dog walker, with nothing but a love of dogs to qualify their resume.

But walking dogs, particularly in groups, takes more than the passion we all share for them.

There are specialized knowledge and skill sets, as well as ethical business practices that are necessary to ensure the safety of the dogs in a walker’s care, as well as the safety and enjoyment of other dogs and humans who share the trails, parks, and sidewalks.

Here are some questions to ask of anyone you’re considering hiring to walk your dog:

1. Are you trained in canine learning theory, body language, and pack management? You want anyone caring for your dog to know how to: a) use scientifically sound, humane training methods; b) read body language and take appropriate steps to prevent fights (and properly break them up when need be); c) judge which dogs to place together for maximum compatibility; and d) handle issues like quarrels over toys, space, or play styles. In short, your walker should have the professional knowledge and skills to keep the group together and under control while everyone has a great time. Of course, a love of dogs is imperative – but not enough on its own.

How many dogs do you walk at once? Some cities, counties, and park districts now regulate the number of dogs a walker can take out together. But most do not. This means some walkers escort six or eight dogs, while others walk as many as 15 and even 20 together in public spaces. Whether on or off leash, each dog added to a group increases the potential for conflict, injury, lost dogs, and distraction – not to mention making individual attention nigh impossible.

Do you walk alone? A walker’s job is to keep the dogs in his or her care safe and show them a good time. This means keeping vigilant focus. Teaming up with a friend can be fun, but it inevitably reduces attention. If that friend is also a dog walker, going out together combines two sets of dogs, making the pack too large for maximum safety. For best results, your walker should hit the trail with dogs, not other people. For similar reasons, cell phones and other potentially distracting devices should be turned off during dog walks.

Do you do the walking? Most dog walking companies are very small – the sole proprietor is the sole walker. Some have multiple employees, however. If you’re considering a larger company, it’s important to know how employees are chosen and trained.

What size dogs do you walk together? Small dogs should be grouped with other small dogs, and the same for big ones. It’s too easy for small dogs to be injured while playing with and among their larger peers. And the risk of predatory drift, in which one dog attacks and even kills another, is much higher than is generally realized. This tragedy can – and most commonly does – happen between dogs who know each other and generally get along well, sometimes for years. It’s safest to stick to the 50 percent rule: if your dog weighs 30 pounds, his playmates should weigh no more than 60 pounds.

How much time do you guarantee on the walk? If the walking service you’re considering involves car transport, make sure the time quoted is time out of the vehicle, roaming and having fun. The car ride shouldn’t be included.

What kind of training methods and equipment do you use? The American Veterinary Medical Association and the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals recommend only positive-reinforcement based training. Your walker should know how to keep a group of dogs under control and safe without the use of choke, prong, and shock collars; citronella or water spray; hitting, shoving, or yelling. The dogs are supposed to have a good time out there. We don’t allow teachers or camp counselors to spank our children. A professional walker shouldn’t need to resort to such measures, either.

Are you licensed, insured, and bonded? Any walker using the word “professional” should carry dog-walking insurance and have a business license. And any employees should be bonded as added protection for you and your home.

Do you have a professional service contract and references? You should be asked to sign a contract to help avoid later conflicts and clarify the walkers’ responsibilities as well as yours as a dog owner.

Are you certified to provide canine first aid, and what are your emergency protocols? What will your walker do if a dog is injured in her care? If your dog is part of a group, what will she do with the rest of the dogs if one member of the group is hurt and requires her full attention? What about if her vehicle breaks down, if a dog is lost, or if a natural disaster occurs? Your walker should always carry emergency information and know the fastest route to the emergency veterinary clinic. Unfortunately, many dog walkers don’t think about these things until they occur; make sure yours has a clear plan.

What kind of vehicle do you use to transport dogs? A walker should never leave dogs unattended in a vehicle, for any reason. And any walker with first aid certification would understand the implications of doing so on a warm day. But should an emergency happen, you want to know that your dog is being transported in a vehicle with maximum airflow. You also want to know the vehicle is well maintained to reduce chances of a breakdown. And ideally the dogs are separated within the vehicle as much as possible for maximum comfort and to reduce chances of conflict during transport.

There is currently an explosion of dog walkers and dog-walking companies, as more busy professionals and families turn to their services for relief from the guilt of a long day at work, and the incredible convenience of coming home to a calm, well- exercised dog.

If that’s you, choose your walker wisely and enjoy the benefits and a big dose of peace of mind.

Your dog walker should make your dog’s day a blast and your day easier, not add worry.

Recommendation by Diane Weinmann 

I personally would recommend JoyCares Personalized Pet Service for your dog walking needs in the great Cleveland area and surrounding suburbs. They are wonderful, conscientious people who love animals and have years of experience. I currently work for them in their special needs area of the business and not dog walking. You wouldn’t want me- I have arthritis in my knees. Before I considered working for them I heard about them on a bus trip I was taking. I overheard someone asking about who they get to watch over their pets and walk them and the JoyCares name was mentioned. The person talking was thrilled with their service. I looked them up and found they have won many awards for their services. They certainly are my choice—try them out and see what you think! I would love to know about your experience. See their website at www.Joycares.com or call 216-281-8701 to obtain more information. You won’t be sorry you did!

ABOUT ERIN TAYLOR

Erin Taylor qualified as a dog trainer in South Africa in 2004. Wanting to expand her experience working with positive reinforcement with dogs she moved to Canada in 2007 to do so. For a numbers of years, Erin owned and operated a successful dog walking business. During that time she connected with dog*tec and became an instructor for their Dog Walking Academy in 2013. In 2015, Erin become a Dogsafe Canine First Aid Authorized Instructor. She has a passion for raising her dogs as naturally, holistically and positively as possible, and loves being in a career where she can help people and their dogs develop strong bonds and relationships, positively!

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmann 

If you’re like the majority of people owned by a cat, pilling little Fluffy – otherwise known as trying to place a tiny, hard object into the mouth of an unwilling creature with sharp claws and teeth – is not something you look forward to. I personally have never had to do this for my cat and I am VERY glad I didn’t. I am posting this information because I feel it is an important skill to know and I am sorry I did not realize how complicated it could be to “pill” your kitty sooner. I am also really grateful I never had to do it because my cat Milo was extremely opinionated on his likes and dislikes (as I noticed all cats are) and I would not have relished the task!

According to Dr. Becker, if you’ve never had to do it, you’re probably thinking it’s not a big deal. In fact, it’s the people who’ve attempted this feat in the past that recoil in fear when their kitty’s veterinarian hands them a bottle of pills or a dietary supplement in pill form.

Fortunately, there are a few different techniques for pilling a cat, because every cat is a little different, and what works for one may not work for another.

Note: the following method works only for medications or supplements that can be given with food.

Pilling Advance Prep

The first steps in giving your kitty a pill or supplement should be taken long before she actually needs that pill or supplement. The goal is to help your cat learn to tolerate the handling that will be necessary to pill her, and also to take liquids and solids from a syringe or pill gun.

First get your cat used to being gently handled around her face and mouth, using treats to reward her for allowing the handling and to associate the activity with something pleasant. Make the initial face-and-mouth handling sessions short, and follow up with a meal, petting or playtime.

As your kitty gets more comfortable with having her face touched, you can begin using your thumb and middle finger to gently lift up slightly on her mouth, forming a C shape with your fingers. Place a special treat like a small morsel of meat that doesn’t need to be chewed into her mouth or immediately upon letting go.

The objective is to get her accustomed to the pilling motion and associate it with something positive.

Performing the Actual Pilling in 5 Steps

Now that you’ve been fake-pilling your kitty for awhile, the day may come when you need to do it for real:

1. Pick your cat’s favorite treat (you may need to try out a few different kinds to learn which one works best).
2. Treat portion sizes must be small enough and soft enough so that your cat doesn’t chew, only licks and swallows. Chewing the pill can release a nasty taste into the treat; in addition, many medications must be swallowed whole to be metabolized properly.
3. Have several treats ready before you begin, so that you can offer them in rapid succession once the fun begins.
4. Hide the pill in one treat, and use your other hand to seal the pill in (so kitty won’t smell medication on the outside of the treat).
5. Give a pill-free treat, followed by the treat with the pill, followed by another pill-free treat.

Since cats are extremely clever, it’s a good idea to vary the number of treats you give at each pilling session, as well as the order in which you give the treat holding the pill, so kitty doesn’t learn to predict which treat holds the pill.

Don’t Overlook the Benefits of Syringe- and Pill Gun-Training

It’s also a great idea to teach your cat early on to take things from a syringe or pill gun.

Start by rubbing a soft treat or some moist food on the outside of the device and letting her lick it clean. This will get her used to the feel of the thing in or near her mouth.

Next, place some moist food or tiny pieces of treat inside the device and gently push them into her mouth in very small amounts.

Once she’s reasonably comfortable taking solids from the device, switch to a few drops of water in the syringe (which she probably won’t enjoy) followed immediately by a syringe with a treat.

The goal is to get kitty comfortable taking liquid and swallowing the pill so the pill doesn’t get stuck in her esophagus. If she’ll take a small amount of broth, tuna juice, or soft food immediately after her pill, it can also help with proper digestion of the medication.

Warning regarding syringe dosing of liquid medication: A quite common cause of aspiration pneumonia is faulty administration of liquid medication either administered by drench (drench is when a stomach tube is passed down the back of the throat), or by a dose syringe. Any liquid that’s given via syringe, whether medication or food, must not be given any faster than the animal can swallow, or the risk of aspiration pneumonia becomes very real.

What If My Cat’s Medication or Supplement Can’t Be Given with Food?

Ideally, your veterinarian can prescribe medication or supplements that can be given with food, because “treating” kitty at pill time as described above is the easiest and best way to keep her stress level down.

However, if the medication has to be given away from food, I recommend you practice the steps below a few times in your mind prior to actually engaging your kitty; the more efficient you are with your cat, the smoother the process will go.

(These instructions are for right-handed people. If you’re left-handed, you’ll need to adjust them accordingly.)

1.P lace kitty on a sturdy, flat surface like a tabletop. Your cat will naturally try to back away from the pill, so you want to rest your right arm on the table and tuck him into the crook of your right elbow.

Trying to approach your cat from the front will have him backing away and escaping from you and the pill. That’s why your body should be behind the cat, with both of you facing the same direction.

2. Hold the pill in your left hand.
3. With your right hand, place your right thumb on one side of your cat’s face on the cheek and your index finger on the other cheek and gently lift his nose toward the ceiling. This will make his mouth drop open a bit.
4. Now use a finger of your left hand to open his lower jaw wider. This position prevents him from being able to bite because he can’t control his lower jaw.
5. Place the pill as far back as possible into his mouth, then let go of his face, but keep him tucked into your elbow. If he licks his lips, it’s an indication the pill has gone down.

Please note: It’s futile, not to mention dangerous, to try to give your cat a pill with his head in a natural position. You will likely be bitten, which is why you must position his head vertically.

6. Many cats actually pretend they’ve swallowed the pill when they haven’t. As soon as they get free, out pops the pill and the joke’s on you.

So don’t let kitty go before checking his mouth for the pill. Cats figure out pretty quickly we’re waiting for licking motions and many clever felines have been known to make the licking motion with the pill still in their mouth.

7. If you can still see the pill in there, re-open your cat’s mouth as described above, reach a finger in and move the pill further back on the tongue if possible. If that doesn’t work, let kitty spit the pill out and start over.
8. If possible, you can try to squirt a small amount of water into your cat’s mouth (see discussion above about teaching your cat to accept a syringe) to encourage him to swallow. This helps float the pill off the tongue and sends it on its way down to the stomach.

Best of luck in this endeavor and remember you are doing it for the good of your cat no matter how mad they may become — they will get over it and if not—call me the animal communicator! I will set them straight. Good ol’ fashion guilt trips always do the trick with our pets!

Come pay tribute to the love you and your pet shared.

If your pet is under the care of a veterinarian at the time of his or her passing, the vet can guide you through the next steps.  But if your pet was not under a vet’s care you are fortunate to have a wide range of options. Whether you want simply for the body to be removed from your home, or you wish to permanently memorialize your pet in some special way, the choice is yours.

Call for Help

This is a difficult time, and it’s probably best if you don’t have to be alone (though some people may prefer to be alone). If possible, call a close friend or family member that can help you deal practically with your pet’s remains and offer emotional support. If you do not think you will physically and/or emotionally be able to handle your pet’s body, choose someone than likely can.

Contact Your Veterinarian

If it is during normal business hours, your vet’s office can help talk you through the steps. They may also have a way of getting you in touch with someone who can pick up your pet’s body (like a pet crematory or mobile vet service). In some cases, your vet’s office may be able to store your pet’s body for a day or two while you make a decision about aftercare arrangements. Your vet’s office should also be able to put you in contact with a local company, as most vets have a relationship with at least one local pet cremation/aftercare business.

Handling the Body

It is not pretty to talk about, but it may come down to this: you (or your friend/relative) may need to handle your pet’s body. If you plan to bury your pet yourself, but cannot do it right away, then the body must be stored properly. If you wish to have your pet cremated or have the burial handled by a company that cannot take your pet’s remains right away, you will also need to properly store the remains. This is likely to be the case if your pet dies in the middle of the night or over a holiday. However, please note that some pet crematories have 24/7 phone service for these kinds of situations. The most important thing to understand is that the remains of the deceased pet must be handled as soon as possible.

The brutal fact is that an animal’s body begins to decompose immediately after death and will soon begin to give off a foul odor and attract insects. The hotter the temperature is, the faster the rate of decomposition. Be aware that rigor mortis, the stiffening of the joints, typically begins within 10 minutes to three hours after death and can last as long as 72 hours. Again, temperature will affect this process. Ideally, the remains will be properly handled before the onset of rigor mortis. If you need to handle and prepare the remains yourself, here is how to proceed:

• Wear latex gloves while handling the body. Upon death, bodily fluids are often released. You may wish to clean the areas around your dog’s mouth, genitals and anus if fluid and/or waste that may have been released. Note that additional bodily fluids and/or waste might be released when the body is moved –be prepared.
• Obtain a blanket, towel or bed sheet that is large enough to wrap around the body. Also obtain a heavy duty plastic trash bag (double them up if the body is very large or if the bags are thin).
• Arrange the body on the blanket, towel or sheet. Place the body on its side in a curled-up position, as if sleeping. This will not only offer a sense of peace; it will also make it easier to handle the body.
• Tightly wrap the body in the blanket, towel or sheet. Then, slide the body into the plastic bag(s). In the case of a larger dog, this will be a two-person job.If you wish to bury your dog on your property, first make sure local laws allow it. Be sure to remove the body from non-biodegradable materials (like plastic) before burial. The body can be placed within a wooden or cardboard casket. The grave should be at least 3 feet deep and in a location that is not likely to erode or be accidentally dug up again.
• Now that is the really rough part of the process. The next part is really up to you and how you wish to memorialize your pet.  There are lots of options for that and I will include them in a completely different blog post.  For now, grieve – just grieve.  You have lost a family member, could be the love of your life—take time to process what you’ve just been through and honor the place they still remain in your heart.
•