Animal Health

Pets and Moving

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, Uncategorized , ,

By guest blogger John Cho

dog-welcome-home-26629661

Are you a pet owner looking to relocate to a new home? As most of us have already experienced, moving is very stressful and takes up a lot of your time. For dog owners, however, it is also important to understand that moving can be very stressful for your pets as well. This applies especially to both cats and dogs as they are innately territorial animals (even domesticated pets). Fortunately, there are certain steps you can take to make the pet moving experience a seamless one. In the below infographic by Moving FC, you can learn about quick tips on moving your dogs before, during, and after the move.

Before You Move

Research, research, and do more research. The more research you do, the more likely it is that you will find the dream home for both you and your furry friend. First, confirm that the apartments in your moving shortlist are pet-friendly. On top of that, make sure these pet-friendly apartments have no disagreements over your dog’s breed and size.

Once you have identified the home you would like to move to, make sure you locate a trustworthy vet in the area. Some vets may not be as comfortable with dealing with specific dog breeds. Your best bet to finding a good vet is by asking your existing one to see if he or she knows of anyone within his network.

During the Move

Keep your dog well away from all the moving activity. Your dog can get stressed out when he or she sees all the boxes and household items being moved out from the apartment. Ideally, you should ask your friends or family members to take care of your dog while the boxes are being moved out. If that isn’t an option then find a “safe” room in the apartment where your dog can be situated while things are being moved out.

If you are doing a long distance move then don’t forget to also look for pet-friendly hotels if overnight stays are needed.

After the Move

You are almost there! Before you introduce your dog to the new home, make sure you check out the whole apartment and store away any household items that could be hazardous to your dog. For example, items like household chemicals should be securely stored in a cabinet that’s out of your dog’s reach. When your move in is complete, be sure to check-in with the new vet to make sure your dog hasn’t suffered from any mental or physical-related conditions during the move.

 

Check out John’s website at:

Moving a Dog to Your New Home – Checklist

Is Your Horse Happy in his Stall?

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , ,

By Christa Lesté-Lasserre, MA and Diane Weinmann

Christa Lesté-Lasserre is a freelance writer based in France

Neiko -passed away recently and was first horse I was able to "rescue" and find a new home
Neiko -passed away recently and was first horse I was able to “rescue” and find a new home

Is your horse happy in the stable? Well, I can tell you from experience that most of the time he is happy if everyone else is in their stalls. If he is alone in the barn and waiting for me to come out- let’s just say he is VERY happy to see me when I show up. On the other hand—on days, especially when we have had quite a few in a row, that he was unable to go outside (they usually get turned out daily weather permitting) he shows his displeasure by pooping in either his water bucket or food tray. Crazy, right? I mean he has to eat or drink out of it there so what is the deal? He is showing his extreme displeasure in the only way that makes sense to him by technically saying this NOT going out is CRAP!!! I laugh for a minute then groan when I am stuck cleaning it out. Sometimes I am lucky enough to be just told about by the unhappy person that found it first and cleaned it up like the angel they are!

But seriously….is your horse happy in the stable is a very important question and one that can polarize equestrians. But it’s also one that a French ethology expert tried to answer during her presentation at the 2015 French Equine Ethology Day, held in April in Saumur.

First, we can’t just look at the horse’s stall—a “box” in more than one sense of the term—but must consider the entire stable situation, said independent ethologist Hélène Roche, MSc. “We really need to see things from the horse’s point of view, not our own,” she said.

A horse expresses his happiness in the stable through emotions and behaviors, though we only see the behaviors, Roche said. Signs that a horse might be unhappy in his lodging include a depressed attitude (minimal reaction to sights and sounds, neck held slightly below the horizontal) and the development of stereotypies—cribbing, wind-sucking, weaving, excessive licking, etc. (Pooping in abnormal places!!)

While these visible behaviors might seem easy to read, others could be confusing or even mean the opposite of what we might think. Take, for example, the group of horses standing at the paddock gate as though they can’t wait to get back in the barn. Does that really indicate that the horse loves his stall? Roche said it could actually mean your horse’s paddock isn’t interesting enough for his basic needs.

“For the paddock to be a pleasant place for him, you can’t just have a few square yards of open space,” she said. “You need the fundamentals: something to eat, some other horses, a dry spot for rolling in, a place to get away from insects, etc. Without that, he probably does want to return to his stall!”

And even if your horse seems to “have fun” playing with balls and stall toys, that doesn’t necessarily mean he’s happy, Roche said. “You see these horses having a great time with those big balls on YouTube,” she said. “And it could be that they really are having genuine fun. But it’s also possible that they’re finding a substitute for social contact, and this is the way they express being deprived of social contact, which is especially true for males.”

Probably the only stable gadget that a horse can find truly pleasant and useful in accordance with his natural behavior is a big brush, said Roche. Having a solid surface for rubbing and scratching against could make for a happier stabled horse. I have not been able to find something like this for my horse’s stall so inventors get going!

Researchers are working to develop and evaluate better stabling systems that are in line with our modern understanding of equine welfare, while still respecting human convenience and time constraints, she said. In the meantime, keep an eye on your horse’s behavior—considering his world from his point of view—and adjust his environment as needed to improve his happiness and pray he doesn’t poop in his water bucket…ewwwww!

 

Bile in Cats

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet ,

Information based on internet searches:

I have a client that is a cat that was throwing up fluid that was not associated with a hair ball and I wanted to learn more about what that was all about.  Here is what I found……cat-doctor-8931746

Bile is a bitter, yellow-green fluid that is created in the liver and stored in the gallbladder until food has been ingested. It is then released into the small intestine to aid in digestion of food and to emulsify the food so that it can be used appropriately by the body. Bile also carries various waste materials out of the body along with the feces.

Bilious vomiting syndrome occurs due to motility problems, when bile abnormally enters into the stomach, causing irritation and vomiting. That is, when the gastrointestinal tract fails to react automatically to the normal functions that occur within the tract, contents in the tract do not move as they should, causing abnormal behaviors within the system. Bile that has entered into the stomach is expelled by the cat, and the vomit contents are found to contain bile.

This reaction is usually seen in the early morning or late night just before eating, especially in cats that are fed once daily. It is a rare condition in cats; when it does occur it is usually in older cats. Both genders are equally affected.

Symptoms and Types

Chronic intermittent vomiting containing bile

  • Usually occurs in the morning or late night just before eating
  • Abdominal discomfort
  • Nausea
  • Lack of appetite
  • Weight loss

Causes

The exact cause is still unknown

  • Diseases causing gastritis or inflammation of the intestine, leading to modified gastrointestinal motility

 Diagnosis

You will need to give a thorough history of your cat’s health, a background history of symptoms, possible incidents that might have led to this condition, and recent activities. As much as you can, you will need to tell your veterinarian when the symptoms began, and how frequently the vomiting occurs.

Your veterinarian will then perform a thorough physical exam on your cat, with a complete blood profile, a chemical blood profile, a complete blood count, and a urinalysis.

A history of intermittent vomiting with bile contents is usually enough for a preliminary diagnosis. In the course of diagnosing this disease, laboratory testing is not of much help as the results are usually within normal ranges. Specific radiographic and ultrasound imaging studies of the abdomen may reveal delayed stomach motility. Endoscopic examination often returns normal in these patients.

 Treatment

If there is no serious underlying disease present, your doctor will decide on an appropriate line of treatment based on the symptoms. Drugs to enhance gastric motility will be used to overcome delayed emptying of stomach, increase stomach and gut motility and thus prevent reflux. Also, drugs that will decrease acid secretion in the stomach can be used to prevent damage to the stomach wall due to the increased acidic contents of the bile.

Most patients respond well to such treatment; the length of time your cat is going to need medication will depend on its individual response. Some animals respond quickly to the treatment, while others need a longer course of medication. For patients suffering chronic bilious vomiting, dietary management is a very important component of treatment, usually involving feeding small, frequent meals, especially late at night. Preventing the stomach from being empty for long periods of time will help to increase normal stomach motility. Diets low in fat and fiber content will also help the stomach to empty and reduce gastric retention of food.

Your veterinarian may also suggest canned or liquefied diets, which also can be helpful in such patients because solid food tend to stay longer in the stomach.

Living and Management

The prognosis is excellent for most cats, given that they respond well to dietary changes and medications.

 

Sugars and Peppermints: Not Safe Treats for All Horses

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , ,

By Clair Thunes, PhD, The Horse newsletter with comments by Diane Weinmann

peppermint-candy-istock

Ok, I admit it—my horse loves peppermints! In fact, he has that cute little ball that you put unwrapped mints into and he can nose it all around in his stall to keep him occupied when the weather requires him to be stall bound. So I saw this article by Clair and I thought I better read it and share it with other horse lovers who indulge their equine pets!

Simple sugars, such as the sucrose found in peppermints and sugar cubes, are absorbed by the horse’s small intestine as glucose and fructose. Glucose causes release of insulin to facilitate the entry of glucose in to cells. Fructose (not to be confused with fructans) is metabolized differently. Only metabolized in the liver, fructose is more lipogenic than glucose, meaning that it’s more likely to lead to production of fat.

Most concern about sugar and starch intake has stemmed from our increasing knowledge about insulin resistance (IR), laminitis, polysaccharide storage myopathies (PSSM), and equine gastric ulcer syndrome (EGUS). Horses with IR release more insulin than is normal in order to remove glucose from their blood stream. As a result, while circulating glucose tends to be normal, circulating insulin is elevated. High circulating insulin creates an increased risk for developing laminitis. Horses with PSSM store glycogen (the storage form of glucose) abnormally in their muscle tissue, and diets high in starch and sugar cause increased production of volatile fatty acids in the gastric stomach causing a more acidic environment and a greater likelihood of a horse developing EGUS

I think it’s important to put the questions of sugar in treats in perspective of a horse’s typical daily non-structural carbohydrate consumption. If we assume a 1,200-pound horse eating 2% of body weight as dry matter from hay a day, and that the hay contains 10% moisture and 10 % nonstructural carbohydrate (NSC) on a dry-matter basis (a value often used as the recommended upper NSC level for horses with metabolic issues, such as IR and PSSM), this horse is consuming 1,090 grams of NSC (starch and simple sugars) per day.

A pure sugar cube weighing about 4 grams is 100% sucrose. The popular round, red-and-white peppermint candies have a human serving size of three pieces (about 15 grams) and of that between 8 and 10 grams are sugar. Traditional peppermint candy canes are heavier at 18 grams and provide about 12 to 14 grams of sugar. You can see that in the context of the above horse’s daily diet these are tiny intakes of sugar. However, there are some important considerations.

When feeding a horse hay, you’re also feeding it proteins and minerals that help buffer stomach acid. Additionally, hay’s fiber component impacts the rate at which the NSC reaches the small intestine and is absorbed. The sugar in sugar cubes dissolves quickly and will move with the liquid fraction of the digesta, which moves more rapidly than larger fibrous particles. This means that that the sugar will likely be absorbed relatively soon after it is fed. This makes it potentially more likely to cause a spike in blood glucose than the NSC contained within hay.

Feeding a healthy horse three or four sugar cubes is unlikely to cause a significant glucose spike; however, for a horse with uncontrolled IR, PSSM, or a laminitis history, feeding sugar cubes isn’t a risk worth taking. Skip the sugary treats, too, if your horse is overweight, especially if he has a cresty neck. After all, every calorie counts and calories from treats mean feeding fewer calories from “real” food. Human research shows that tissues in insulin resistant people are more sensitive to insulin after exercise. This may or may not be the case in horses, but if it is, then your horse might be better able to handle the sugar in these treats when they are given shortly after work.

For the otherwise healthy horse, consuming a candy cane or a few peppermint candies is unlikely to have any major impact. Bottom line for me—my horse has never had any laminitis history and is healthy so he will continue to be entertained by his treat ball but I will ensure I only put less than 5 peppermints in the ball at a time (he doesn’t get it every day –it’s weather induced). He sure loves to hear those mints rattle around in there!

 

Those Rascally Rabbits!

Diane Weinmann Animal Health ,

By Susan A. Brown, DVM and Diane Weinmannbunny praying for blueberries

This article is dedicated to Flopsy, Sniffles, Cinnamon and Magic- you were all a true blessing in my life

I’ve had quite a few rabbits in my life. I’ve always loved their gentleness and curiosity. My son requested a bunny when he was younger and I told him he could have one when he was 10 years old because that’s how old I was when I obtained my first bunny.  Well, he was a few months shy of 10 years old but the county fair was in town and had a great bunny selection.  Soooooo, he got his bunny and I was so jealous he was getting one that I got one too!   Now,  that didn’t really work out so well for me because my bunny died prematurely at age 2 years old from a heart attack.  All these years I had bunnies and I never knew that many do not make it past 2 years of age due to heart issues.  WOW, blew me away but of course, I absconded with my son’s rabbit!  He didn’t really give him all the attention he needed anyway—or so I told myself!  What can I say—I’m a rabbit junkie!  Being a bunny lover, I wanted to pass on some good information  regarding their feeding because I used to have fun with all my bunnies when it came to their food.

Background

Rabbits in the wild all over the world successfully consume a wide variety of plant material. Various types of dry and fresh grasses and plants with leaves comprise the largest portion of the wild rabbit diet. Rabbits will also eat bark on trees, tender twigs and sprouts, fruits, seeds and other nutritious foods in much small amounts. This is important to know when we decide what is a healthy diet for our house rabbits.

What to Feed

The majority of the house rabbit diet should be composed of grass hay (any variety). Grass hay is rich in Vitamin A and D as well as calcium, protein and other nutrients. Eating hay promotes healthy teeth and gastrointestinal tract and should be available to your rabbit at all times. Varying the type of grass hay or mixing hays is a great idea (such as timothy, orchard, oat hay, brome, etc). Avoid the use of alfalfa hay as the primary source of hay due to the fact it is very high in calories and protein, far more than the average house rabbit needs. Alfalfa is not a grass, but rather a legume (in the pea and bean family).

Fresh foods are also an important part of your rabbit’s diet and they provide additional nutrients as well as different textures and tastes, which are enriching for your friend as well. Fresh foods also provide more moisture in the diet, which is good for kidney and bladder function. The bulk of fresh foods should be made up of leafy greens (about 75% of the fresh part of the diet). Any leafy green that is safe for a human or a horse to eat is safe for a rabbit to consume.

An approximate amount to feed would be around 1 cup of greens for 2 lbs of rabbit body weight once a day or divided into multiple feedings a day.

Many plants contain a naturally occurring chemicals called an alkaloids, which are mild toxins that protect plant in the wild. The one most talked about with rabbits is oxalic acid and it is completely harmless to animals or humans when consumed in small amounts. The amount of oxalic acid within each plant can vary significantly due to several factors including the composition of the soil the plant grew in, the time of year and the age of the plant. Most of the fresh vegetables we feed rabbits have a low to zero level of oxalic acid, but a few, most notably parsley, mustard greens and spinach have relatively high levels. (Note that kale, which is often implicated as a high oxalate food is actually very low in oxalates). The toxicity of oxalic acid comes with feeding large quantities of foods high in this chemical and can result in tingling of the skin, the mouth and damage to the kidneys over time. These foods are nutritious and do not need to be excluded from the diet if you feed them appropriately. I recommend feeding a minimum of at least 3 types of leafy greens a day (and only one of them should be from the group listed above) Don’t feed the same greens all the time from week to week if possible, mix it up. For instance if you feed parsley this week, then leave it out of the diet for next week and use something else. Rotating the greens will also give your bunny variety in taste, texture and general nutrition!Bunny with greens

Some folks are concerned that you rabbits need to acquire a significant amount of vitamin A from greens. As mentioned above, hay is rich in vitamin A, so it is unnecessary to be concerned about the specific vitamin A content of the greens. Just for information though, kale is extremely rich in vitamin A as well as most of the leaf lettuces. And while we are on the subject of vitamins, rabbits make their own vitamin C in their bodies, unlike humans who have to get vitamin C through their diet. You may know that dark green leafy vegetables and red peppers have more vitamin C per weight than citrus fruits!

Some people are concerned about feeding foods that cause gastrointestinal (GI) gas in people such as broccoli. A rabbit’s GI tract is not the same as a human’s and many of the foods that may cause gas in a human do not cause gas in a rabbit. The most common types of foods that do create havoc in the rabbit’s GI tract are those that are high in starch and sugars because they create a change in the pH of the cecum and eventually can throw the whole system off. The result can be serious GI disease. Foods that are notorious for causing rabbit GI problems when fed improperly are grains of any kind and legumes (beans, peas, etc). Even starchy root vegetables and fruits if fed to excess with their high load of sugars and starch could be a problem and should only be fed as a very small part of the diet.

There has also been discussion about feeding vegetables that are goitrogenic in humans (causing a goiter) more notoriously those in the broccoli/cabbage family. One study done on rabbits indicated that it would take several weeks of exclusively feeding huge quantities of these foods to see any abnormalities in the blood. This is so far removed from normal feeding instructions for rabbits that there is no cause for concern in feeding these nutritious foods.

Beyond leafy greens you can feed other vegetables such as root vegetables or “flowers” such as broccoli and cauliflower. These foods are often higher in starch or sugars and should be fed in lesser amounts than the leafy greens. Avoid foods in the onion family such as leeks, chives and onions because eating these foods could cause blood abnormalities. A good amount of “other” vegetables (non leafy greens) to feed your rabbit would be about 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day in one meal or divided into two or more.

Fruits can also be fed in small amounts. In the wild these would be special high calorie foods obtained only at certain times of the year. Fruits make great training treats! You also might choose to hand-feed the fruit portion of the diet as part of developing a close bond with your bunny and also to make sure he has an appetite every day. It is a great way to see if your bunny is feeling good when you observe if he takes his fruit treat every morning! If he doesn’t want to eat his treat, it is time to call your veterinarian. Remember that dried fruits are about 3 times as concentrated as the fresh variety so feed less of those. Rabbits, like many animals naturally gravitate towards high calorie foods such as those high in sugar or starch. This is a protective device from the wild days when they could never be sure when or if they would get the next meal. When a plant would produce fruit, it is for a limited time and all the animals in the area would want to gobble these gems up quickly! This means that rabbits cannot limit themselves when given sugary or starchy foods if left to their own devices! Overfeeding fruits can result in a weight gain or GI upset so it is up to you to feed these foods in limited amounts. An approximate amount of fruit to feed your rabbit is a teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight daily in one feeding or divided into multiple feedings.

All my bunnies loved fruit- strawberries and blueberries to be exact. In fact, one of my bunnies would dump her bowl of veggies and fruit to get at the few blueberries that were on the bottom.  And God help me when I didn’t give her a few blueberries!  She would throw all the other food out, give me a dirty look and thump at me to show her displeasure.  In the winter, I would tell her to get over it because they were too expensive to buy!  Once she realized they were not coming she settled for her other food.  That is one of my most favorite memories and it always makes me smile to think of her throwing out those other foods to get to the blueberries.  I know how she felt- I would do the same for chocolate!

IMPORTANT: Before introducing any fresh foods to a rabbit it is best if he has been eating grass hay for a minimum of 2 weeks. The grass hay will help to get his GI tract motility and flora in good working order so that he will be able to accept new foods more easily. When introducing new fresh foods to any rabbit’s diet it is best to go slowly to allow the gastrointestinal tract and all its important microorganisms to adjust. Introduce one new food every three days and keep a watch on the stools. It is rare for a rabbit that has been on a hay diet first, to have any problems using this method, but if you note softer stools that persist over a couple of days, then you might want to remove that food from your bunny’s diet. Keep a list as you go of the foods that your rabbit has successfully eaten; you will then have a handy shopping list when you go to the store!

LIST OF POSSIBLE FOODS TO FEED

NOTE: It is always preferable to buy organic produce if at all possible. If collecting wild foods such as dandelion greens, make sure they are from a pesticide-free area. All fresh foods regardless of the source should be washed or scrubbed (in the case of hard vegetables) before serving them to your rabbit.

LEAFY GREENS These foods should make up about 75% of the fresh portion of your rabbit’s diet (about 1 packed cup per 2 lbs of body weight per day).

Leafy Greens I (need to be rotated due to oxalic acid content and only 1 out of three varieties of greens a day should be from this list)

  • Parsley
  • Spinach
  • Mustard greens
  • Beet greens
  • Swiss chard
  • Radish tops
  • Sprouts (from 1 to 6 days after sprouting, sprouts have higher levels of alkaloids)

An approximate amount to feed would be around 1 cup of greens for 2 lbs of rabbit body weight once a day or divided into multiple feedings a day.

Leafy Greens II (low in oxalic acid)

  • Arugula
  • Carrot tops
  • Cucumber leaves
  • Endive
  • Ecarole
  • Frisee Lettuce
  • Kale (all types)
  • Mache
  • Red or green lettuce
  • Romaine lettuce
  • Spring greens
  • Turnip greens
  • Dandelion greens
  • Mint (any variety)
  • Basil (any variety)
  • Watercress
  • Wheatgrass
  • Chicory
  • Raspberry leaves
  • Cilantro
  • Radicchio
  • Bok Choy
  • Fennel (the leafy tops as well as the base)
  • Borage leaves
  • Dill leaves
  • Yu choy

NON-LEAFY VEGETABLES

These should be no more than about 15 % of the diet (About 1 tablespoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day).

  • Carrots
  • Broccoli (leaves and stems)
  • Edible flowers (roses, nasturtiums, pansies, hibiscus)
  • Celery
  • Bell peppers (any color)
  • Chinese pea pods (the flat kind without large peas)
  • Brussel sprouts
  • Cabbage (any type)
  • Broccolini
  • Summer squash
  • Zucchini squash

FRUITSbunny with apple

These should be no more than 10% of the diet (about 1 teaspoon per 2 lbs of body weight per day). NOTE: unless otherwise stated it is more nutritious to leave the skin on the fruit (particularly if organic), just wash thoroughly. IF you are in doubt about the source of the fruit and you are concerned about chemicals in the skin, then remove it.

  • Apple (any variety, without stem and seeds)
  • Cherries (any variety, without the pits)
  • Pear
  • Peach
  • Plum (without the pits)
  • Kiwi
  • Papaya
  • Mango
  • Berries (any type)
  • Berries (uncooked)
  • Pineapple (remove skin)
  • Banana (remove peel; no more than about 2 1/8 inch slices a day for a 5 lb rabbit…they LOVE this!)
  • Melons (any – can include peel and seeds)
  • Star Fruit
  • Apricot
  • Currants
  • Nectarine

I hope you learned a lot from this article. I always kept list of acceptable foods on the side of my refrigerator and I would take a peek at it before I went grocery shopping to see what delights I could tempt my bunny with!

Rabbits are amazing pets. I remember when my bunny Cinnamon would roll her technically cat toy to me and I would roll it back and then she would pick it up in her teeth and throw it or roll it back to me again and on and on we played.   Rabbits provide fun and loving comfort to any person regardless of age.  Just watch your clothes- they tend to chew little holes in your clothes if they sit in your lap for too long—at least mine did.  Years later, I can still put on a nightgown and find a hole or two that was accredited to one of my bunnies. Oh—and watch the electrical cords—they like to chew them too!  All in all, bunnies are a delight to have and will be a loving member of your family.   That’s all folks!

Cinnamon

 

De-icing Dangers

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , , ,

Veterinarian Reviewed on January 7, 2016 by Dr. Janice Huntingford and Diane Weinmann

I need Diane's lotion bar please!
I need Diane’s lotion bar please!

The winter season is here with the cold, snow and ice. When snow is on the ground, municipalities apply commercially prepared snow and ice melting products. Home and business owners also apply similar chemicals to sidewalks, porches and driveways. Most ice melting compounds contain salt products that can damage vegetation and hard surfaces and are toxic to people and their pets. Most people are not aware of the dangers that deicing solutions pose to pets.

Many ice melting salt products contain sodium chloride. With exposure of the salt to water and low temperatures, a reaction occurs that causes melting with temperatures generated up to 175°F. This reaction can burn the pet’s foot pads and skin with contact and can burn the mouth and rest of the GI tract with ingestion. Dogs and cats can ingest the salt by licking snow or icy surfaces or by licking their paws after being outside and picking up the ice melting pellets between their toes.

Salt toxicity is also a possibility with the salt-based ice melting products. Ingestion of salt can result in high blood sodium concentration leading to thirst, vomiting, lethargy, anorexia, kidney damage and possible neurologic signs including seizures, coma and even death. It is difficult to know how much salt is a “toxic dose.” Even small amounts of pure salt can be dangerous to a pet if ingested.

A pet with clinical signs suspected of ingesting rock salt should be assessed by a veterinarian. Serum sodium level will be elevated and reestablishing normal fluid and electrolyte balance may be necessary with fluid support and in-hospital care with 24-hour observation. It is important that water replacement be managed carefully because rapid shifts in water with dehydration may result in cerebral edema ( brain swelling) and cause neurologic signs.

Salt-based ice melting products are the least expensive. There are other, more expensive formulations that contain potassium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium carbonate or calcium magnesium acetate. The potassium and magnesium salts are less toxic if ingested but can still burn the foot pads. The calcium-based products do not create an exothermic reaction but still can be drying to the skin surface with exposure.

I know you have to carefully check the pads of your dog’s paws for salt granules that are stuck. I think my dog ate one and then he threw up a bunch of bile. It was gross but once he threw up he seemed better and ate his dinner.   I know it’s easy to forget to check but try to remember to look after every outside walk!

Here are steps that the pet owner can take to minimize risk for his or her pet:

  • Monitor/modify your pet’s behavior to minimize the risk of salt exposure.
  • Use waterproof pet boots during winter walks with dogs.
  • Wash off the pet’s feet, abdomen and chest after being outside with exposure to deicing salts.
  • Use sand, crushed cinder or cat litter to provide traction on icy pavement being aware that these products will not melt the snow or ice.
  • Immediately remove slush and dissolved deicing product after the snow and ice have melted enough.
  • Seek veterinary care if you suspect foot pad or skin burning from salt exposure or that your pet has ingested a significant amount of a salt product.
  • I also sell a product that is a pet lotion bar to put on your dog’s paws or nose to help with chapping and winter exposure to the elements as well as to the salt. The product has cocoa butter, shea butter, bees wax olive butter, avocado oil, neem oil and oatmeal and is completely handmade, holistic (as you can see by the ingredients) and safe for your pet even if they lick at it.       The pet nose and paw lotion bar is $10 plus shipping. Contact Dianefortheloveofanimals@yahoo.com if you would like to purchase one of these fabulous bars (I use it on my own hands and feet).

Raising a Long-Lived Cat

Diane Weinmann Animal Health , ,

By Dr. Becker and comments by Diane Weinmannwoman-cat-1077355

Many kitties today are, thankfully, living into their late teens and early 20s. Just as with dogs, a cat’s longevity is often quite clearly linked to lifestyle and environment.

Tips for keeping your cat in tip-top shape include:

  • Feed a balanced, antioxidant-rich, and species-appropriate diet that includes omega-3 essential fats, such as krill oil. Moisture is your cat’s best friend, so encourage adequate hydration by offering a variety of water bowls around the house or a drinking fountain, in addition to minimizing dry food. If your cat is addicted to poor quality food, add a whole body supplement such as Standard Process Feline Whole Body Support. When I took my classes to become certified in canine nutrition, I learned about Standard Process products. I can’t say enough good things about the company and the work they do. Please consider what they offer for your pet.

 

  • Keep your pet’s body and mind active with regular exercise and mental stimulation (for example, puzzles and treat-release toys). Think of creative ways to enrich your cat’s indoor environment and if your kitty never touches the earth’s surface directly (most housecats don’t), consider a grounding pad to help reduce the buildup of EMFs.

 

  • Refuse or strictly limit vaccinations, veterinary drugs, and chemical pest preventives.

 

  • Provide your kitty with a SAMe (S-adenosylmethionine) supplement, and offer periodic detoxification with the herbs milk thistle and dandelion, as well as supergreen foods in the form of fresh “cat grass” or sunflower sprouts to nibble on. Chlorophyll, chlorella, or spirulina can also be offered in supplement form to enhance your cat’s detoxification processes.

 

  • Medium-chain triglycerides (MCTs) have been shown to be safe for cats and can improve brain energy metabolism and decrease the amyloid protein buildup that results in brain lesions in older pets. Coconut oil is a rich source of MCTs and may also reduce hairball issues. I recommend 1/4 teaspoon for every 10 pounds of body weight twice daily for basic MCT support, if your cat will voluntarily eat it.

 

  • Set aside time each day to interact with your kitty. Make sure meals are provided on a consistent schedule, along with playtime and petting/lap time. If your cat tolerates being brushed or combed, work that into the daily schedule as well. Cuddle with them, take them out for a walk (even in a special stroller is fun for them), show them new and interesting things like leaves, non-toxic flowers, boxes, tissue paper and bags to enrich their lives. Usually the most mundane things you already have in your household will intrigue your cat—you can consider it a game between the two of you to see what you can find in your house that would be safe for the cat to interact with without spending extra money. It would be a win-win situation!

The good news is that despite their relatively short lifespans, cats live in the moment and know how to make the most of every day. It’s our job as loving guardians to make sure they are given that opportunity.

cat lounging

Gastroesophageal Reflux in Cats

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet ,

woman-cat-1077355

 

Did you know that cats can get gastroesophageal reflux just like us humans? I had a sneaky suspicion that one of my cat clients had it so I decided to look further into if this type of ailment plagued cats too. Here is what I found:

Gastroesophageal reflux is fairly common in cats, and may occur at any age, although younger cats are at greater risk. Technically it is the uncontrollable reverse flow of gastric or intestinal fluids into the tube connecting the throat and the stomach (esophagus) and is medically referred to as gastroesophageal reflux. This may be due to a brief relaxation of the muscular opening at the base of the esophagus (referred to as the sphincter), as well as chronic vomiting.

Gastric stomach acids, pepsin, bile salts, and other components of the gastrointestinal juices cause damage to the protective mucus lining the esophagus. This can result in inflammation of the esophagus (esophagitis). Just like in us humans! Amazing!

Symptoms and Types

According to vets, gastroesophageal reflux can cause esophagitis with varying amounts of damage. Mild esophagitis is limited to a mild inflammation of the esophageal lining, while more severe ulcerative esophagitis causes damage to the deeper layers of the esophagus.

Your cat’s behavioral history can reveal symptoms such as spitting up (regurgitation) of food, evidence of pain (mewling or howling, for example) while swallowing, lack of appetite, and weight loss. A physical exam will often not reveal any concrete findings. Severe esophagitis may include symptoms of fever and extreme salivation.

Causes

Gastroesophageal reflux may occur when an anesthetic is administered, causing the opening between the stomach and the esophagus (gastroesophageal sphincter) to relax. Improper positioning of the patient during anesthesia, as well as a failure to fast the animal properly prior to anesthesia can also result in gastroesophageal reflux.

An associated condition is congenital hiatal hernia, which is suspected of heightening the risk for gastroesophageal reflux. Young cats are at greater risk of developing this condition as well because their gastroesophageal sphincters are still developing. Long-term or chronic vomiting is another risk factor.

Diagnosis

The best means vets have of getting a diagnosis is generally an esophagoscopy, which is an examination that uses an internal camera to view the lining of the esophagus. This is the most effective way to determine if changes in the mucus of the esophagus are consistent with esophagitis due to gastroesophageal reflux. The examination may also reveal an irregular surface in the mucus lining, or active bleeding in the esophagus.

Alternative diagnoses include ingestion of a caustic agent, a foreign body or tumor in the esophagus, a hernia in the upper portion of the stomach (hiatal hernia), or disease of the throat or mouth.

Treatment

The good news is that most treatments can be done at home. Your veterinarian may advise you to withhold food for one to two days, thereafter following a dietary regimen of low-fat, low-protein meals given in small, frequent feedings. Dietary fat and protein should be limited, as fat decreases the strength of the muscle between the stomach and esophagus, while protein stimulates the secretion of gastric acid.

Medications are an additional option. Drugs known as gastrointestinal pro-kinetic agents improve the movement of stomach contents through the intestines and also strengthen the gastroesophageal sphincter. Regardless of whether medications are given, a change in diet is advisable.

Do NOT provide your cat Bismuth subsalicylate (Pepto-Bismol). It is considered unsafe for use in cats due to a cat’s sensitivity to salicylates. Likewise – NO Tums! It is never wise to give your cat medicines intended for human consumption!

Living and Management

After initial treatment and alteration of diet, it is advisable to continue monitoring for gastroesophageal reflux. Watch for signs of discomfort. A continued low-fat, low-protein diet will prevent future incidences, and high-fat foods should be avoided, as they may worsen gastroesophageal reflux.

If your cat does not respond to initial medical treatments, a follow-up esophagoscopy may be advised.

Prevention

High-fat foods can worsen acid reflux. The best prevention is a healthy diet that is low in fatty foods.

 

Vibrational Medicine

Diane Weinmann Animal Health, healing your pet
Healing Hands using Healing Touch for Animals or Reiki
Healing Hands using Healing Touch for Animals or Reiki

I use vibrational medicine a lot in my holistic healing practice with animals.  So what exactly is healing on a vibrational level?  I talk about it a lot but I never knew the exact definition of it until I looked it up.  I intrinsically knew what I meant when I talked about healing with crystals, color and sound but when asked to explain it I could not articulate it to my satisfaction.

Vibrational medicine is a term used to describe a wide variety of living remedies. Vibrational medicine incorporates the use of chi energies within living organisms such as plants, gemstones and crystals, water, sunlight, and even the foods we eat. Almost everything we touch and see around us has a living pulse inside of it. We need look no further than the planet we live on to take advantage of its natural vibrational remedies to help us balance the chi energies within our own bodies

Vibrational medicine is a type of energy medicine. Energy medicine is based on vitalism, the metaphysical doctrine that living organisms possess a non-physical inner force or energy that gives them the property of life. This metaphysical force goes by many names: chi or qi (China), prana (India), ki (Japan); Many kinds of alternative therapies or energy medicines are based on a belief that health is determined by the flow of this energy: acupuncture, acupressure, crystal therapy, massage, therapeutic touch (TTouch), reiki, healing touch for animals (HTA), healing with sound and vibration (tuning forks, music and drums), aromatherapy (essential oils)  healing with color or herbs are a few of the better known therapies.

1.  Healing with Crystals and Gemstonescrystals

A shiny rock plucked from the dirt is one of the first treasures I discovered as a small child on my own. Rocks, a natural resource of earth, can be found almost anywhere. We pave our streets with gravel, our beach sands are made from the smallest crystals. We adorn ourselves with gold rings and silver bracelets that are set with colorful gemstones. Whether or not you realize it, within each gemstone and crystal is housed healing properties. Ever wonder why you are attracted to a particular stone and not another? Nature finds a way to get the stones that carry the healing and spiritual properties that are most needed into our hands.  I use all different types of crystals in my healing practice.  I’ve also created critter crystals that hang off collars and halters (horses/cows/goats) to promote wellness with your pets.

2.  Healing with Light and ColorsColor Harmonics

Color is simply a form of visible light, of electromagnetic energy. All the primary colors reflected in the rainbow carry their own unique healing properties. The sun  and moon themselves are wonderful healers! Just imagine what life would be like without sunshine. It has been proven that lack of sunlight contributes to depression for some people. Some of the tools used in color therapy are gemstones, candles, wands, prisms, colored fabrics, bath treatments, and colored eye wear.  Laser therapy is a field of medicine that is being developed more and more in the health care community. I use healing with color using the LumaLight to bring color, healing and balance into a pet’s energy field.  I also use the STS 2  Healing systems which uses red and infared lights to promote healing and wellness.

3.  Healing with Plants and Herbs

All plants (trees, flowers, and even our garden grown foods) have nutritional and/or medicinal properties. The foods we eat have a vibrational energy within them along with their nutritional values. The rite of blessing our food before we eat originated from pagan roots. Thankfulness is offered for the sacrifice the plants give when it is harvested. The Diva Kingdom consists of aromatic herbs used in essential oils and flower essences. Each “Diva” (flower or plant) carries its own unique talent that can be used as a remedy. For example, cherry plum brings mental calmness, clematis is a grounding essence, holly teaches love and acceptance, and so on.  I use Bach Flower essences which are made from 38 different plants and flowers to elicit emotional healing in both people and pets.  I also use essential oils for a variety of healing purposes both physical and emotional.

4.  Healing with the Elements

Our world is comprised four basic elements. These are air, earth, fire, and water. Understanding what each element represents helps us evaluate where our individual strengths and weaknesses are. Healers have found that focusing on the elements and the vibrational energies associated with each of them is helpful when seeking what course of treatments would best address our problems. Approximately seventy percent of the earth’s surface consists of water. This fact alone make water an element awarded our utmost respect. Besides that, our bodies require us to drink water for our basic survival.

5.  Healing with Sound and Music

Sound and musical tones are vibrational healers. Chanting OM is the most basic, primal sound and the origin of all sounds. Without our voices and ears, communication would be limited. Some sounds are not pleasant to listen to (fingernail on the chalkboard, a screeching train wheel, etc.) but many sounds are soothing. Nature offers some of the most healing vibrational tones (babbling brooks, whale songs, wind in the trees, and so on). Sound therapists incorporate a variety of sound tools into their work (drums, tuning forks, singing bowls, and others).  I use tuning forks for both vibrational (touching the fork to a body) and for sound (the actual vibration of the fork when struck against an activator).

So now that we all know what vibrational medicine can do for us, let’s start vibrating! (ha ha ha)

Tuning Fork and Activator
Tuning Fork and Activator